Les Droites

Les Droites
Le Aiguilles du Dru (a sinistra), la Aiguille Verte (al centro) e Les Droites (a destra sullo sfondo)
StatoFrancia (bandiera) Francia
RegioneRodano-Alpi
DipartimentoAlta Savoia
Altezza4 000 m s.l.m.
Prominenza204 m
Isolamento0,7 km
CatenaAlpi
Coordinate45°56′20″N 6°59′28″E
Data prima ascensione7 agosto 1876
Autore/i prima ascensioneThomas Middlemore e John Oakley con le guide Henri Cordier, Johann Jaun e Andreas Maurer
Mappa di localizzazione
Mappa di localizzazione: Francia
Les Droites
Les Droites
Mappa di localizzazione: Alpi
Les Droites
Dati SOIUSA
Grande ParteAlpi occidentali
Grande SettoreAlpi Nord-occidentali
SezioneAlpi Graie
SottosezioneAlpi del Monte Bianco
SupergruppoMassiccio del Monte Bianco
GruppoCatena dell'Aiguille Verte
SottogruppoCatena Driotes-Courtes
CodiceI/B-7.V-B.5.b
Modifica dati su Wikidata · Manuale

Les Droites (4.000 m s.l.m.[1]) è una montagna francese del massiccio del Monte Bianco (Alpi Graie).

Descrizione

Il monte si trova nella Catena dell'Aiguille Verte. È l'ultima delle 82 vette delle Alpi che raggiungono i 4.000 m. La montagna ha due cime:

  • La Cima ovest (3.984 m)
  • La Cima est (4.000 m)

Les Droites sono particolarmente famose per la parete nord, considerata una delle nord più belle e difficili delle Alpi. La sua prima ascensione nel 1955 fu considerata un exploit per l'epoca.[2]

Ascensioni

Prima ascensione

La prima ascensione alla cima est fu compiuta il 7 agosto 1876 da Thomas Middlemore e John Oakley con le guide Henri Cordier, Johann Jaun e Andreas Maurer. La prima salita alla cima ovest fu compiuta il mese precedente, precisamente il 16 luglio 1876 da William Auguste Coolidge, Christian Almer e Ulrich Almer.

Concatenamenti

  • Pareti nord delle Droites, dell'Aiguille de Talèfre e delle Grandes Jorasses (Linceul) - 1983 - Concatenamento di Christophe Profit in solitaria in 22 ore. Ha salito la via Cornuau-Davaille sulle Droites in circa tre ore, la nord dell'Aiguille de Talèfre in due ore, il Linceul in tre ore e mezza. Tutti gli spostamenti sono stati effettuati a piedi o con gli sci.[3]
  • Pareti nord dell'Aiguille Verte, delle Droites, delle Courtes e delle Grandes Jorasses - 18 marzo 1986 - Concatenamento di Jean-Marc Boivin in solitaria in 17 ore. Ha salito la Goulotte Grassi-Comino sull'Aiguille Verte, la via Cornuau-Davaille sulle Droites, la via degli Svizzeri sulle Courtes e il Linceul sulle Grandes Jorasses. Ha effettuato gli spostamenti in parapendio e deltaplano.[4]

Vie alpinistiche

Le vie sulla parete nord delle Droites.
Le vie sulla parete nord-est delle Droites. Al centro della foto lo sperone Tournier.

Parete nord

  • Couzy-Salson - 14-15 luglio 1952 - Prima salita di Jean Couzy e R. Salson sul pilastro nord.
  • Cornuau-Davaille - 15-10 settembre 1955 - Prima salita di Philippe Cornuau e Maurice Davaille. Prima via sulla parete nord propriamente detta.[2]
  • Axt-Gross - 24-26 luglio 1962 - Prima salita di Wolfgang Axt et Werner Gross, via classica.[5]
  • Via Messner - 17 luglio 1969 - Prima salita di Reinhold Messner e anche prima solitaria della parete nord, in sette ore.[6]
  • Boivin-Gabarrou - 2-3 agosto 1975 - Prima salita di Jean-Marc Boivin e Patrick Gabarrou.[5]
  • Colton-Brooks - 1977 - Prima salita di Nick Colton e Colin "Choe" Brooks.[6]
  • Ginat - 24 luglio 1978 - Prima salita di Jean Ginat, Gilles Modica, Jean-Pierre Simon e Jean-Marc Troussier. Jean Ginat morì durante la discesa.[6]
    • 19 gennaio 2010 - Salita di Ueli Steck nel tempo record di 2h:08.[7]

Parete nord-est

  • Couloir Lagarde - 31 luglio 1930 - Prima salita di Bobi Arsandaux e Jacques Lagarde.[8]
  • Sperone Tournier - 20 -21 luglio 1937 - Prima salita di Fernand Tournier e Charles Authenac.[9]
  • Pilastro Bergland - 25 luglio 1969 - Prima salita di Reinhold Messner ed Erich Lackner.[8]
  • Ecaille épique - 1-4 febbraio 2011 - Prima salita di Patrick Pessi, Rémi Sfilio e Seb Ratel.[10]

Rifugi

Per facilitare l'accesso alla vetta vi sono i rifugi:

Note

  1. ^ François Labande, Monte Bianco, vol. 2, Edizioni Mediterranee, 1993, p. 114. URL consultato il 17 giugno 2021.
  2. ^ a b Labande, p. 118.
  3. ^ Roberto Mantovani, Informazioni alpinistiche, in Rivista della Montagna, n. 57, luglio 1983, p. 265.
  4. ^ Roberto Mantovani, Informazioni alpinistiche, in Rivista della Montagna, n. 76, giugno 1986, p. 73.
  5. ^ a b Damilano, p. 122.
  6. ^ a b c Damilano, p. 125.
  7. ^ Ginat sulle Droites, Ueli Steck solo in video, su planetmountain.com, 21 aprile 2010. URL consultato il 28 maggio 2012.
  8. ^ a b Labande, p. 123.
  9. ^ Damilano, p. 120.
  10. ^ Les Droites: via nuova, su up-climbing.com, 23 febbraio 2011. URL consultato il 5 giugno 2012 (archiviato dall'url originale il 26 febbraio 2011).

Bibliografia

Voci correlate

Altri progetti

Collegamenti esterni

  Portale Alpinismo

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