Malharia

Ligação de malha simples

Malharia é a produção de tecidos de malha. Os tecidos de malha são caracterizados pelo entrelaçar dos fios têxteis, sendo esses sempre no mesmo sentido – ou todos na trama (horizontal) ou todos no urdume (teia). O processo é realizado com a ajuda de agulhas, e o tecimento fundamental neste caso é o tricot.

Malharia de trama

Formação de uma malha de trama.

Malharia circular

Um tear de malharia circular de pequeno diâmetro.
Um tear de malharia circular de grande diâmetro.

O tecido de malha em formato tubular é produzido em teares circulares.

As ligações básicas são a meia-malha (jersey), o piquet, o moletom e o rib. A máquina pode ser de monofrontura ou de duplafrontura, e usa cunhas chamadas excêntricas (por analogia ao processo de cala), que movimentam as agulhas de lingueta.

A malharia circular pode ser dividida em dois tipos: de pequeno e de grande diâmetro.

Malharia retilínea

Esta é usada, principalmente, para a produção de golas, punhos ou peças já prontas (maquinas fully-fashion). A indústria de malharia retilínea conta atualmente com equipamentos eletrônicos com grande capacidade de recursos. Hoje é bastante utilizada a técnica de aplicação de jacquard em golas, principalmente escolares e de uniformes, onde se colocam o nome, o logotipo ou o detalhe desenhado), personalizando o produto final, e intarsia nas peças de meia malha para públicos mais refinados. A malharia retilinea também é considerada malharia de trama.

Malharia de urdume (Teia)

Os carretéis de urdume, devidamente preparados, entram nas máquina Raschel ou Kettenstuhl. Os fios de urdume passam pelas agulhas, que estão presas nas barras que fazem o entrelaçamento com os fios próximos. A primeira máquina é normalmente utilizada para tecer rendas e similares, e a segunda para tecidos, notadamente na fabricação de lingerie, filtros etc.

Frontura é a frente de tecimento – o local onde as agulhas são colocadas para trabalho – e pode ter formato retilíneo ou circular. As máquinas de malharia podem ter apenas uma frontura (monofrontura) ou ter duas (duplafrontura). Isso determina o tecido a ser produzido: tecido em meia malha ou em malha dupla.[1][2][3][4]

Referências

  1. ↑ Tecnologia da Malharia.
  2. ↑ Malharia – Bases de fundamentação. Por Marcos Silva, abril de 2008.
  3. ↑ Confecção de tecidos em malhas, por Allan George A. Jaigobind, Lúcia do Amaral e Sammay Jaisingh. Instituto de Tecnologia do Paraná. Agosto de 2007.
  4. ↑ O Tecido de Malha e a Tecnologia da Malharia

Ver também

Ligações externas

  • O que é tecido?. Instituto Federal de Educação, Ciência e Tecnologia de Santa Catarina (IFSC).

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