中衣

中衣
漢服中單
汉语名称
繁体字 中衣 ‧ 中單 ‧ 中襌 ‧ 襌衣
简化字 中衣 ‧ 中单 ‧ 中襌 ‧ 襌衣
朝鲜语名稱
諺文적삼 · 중의 · 중단 · 단의 · 속저고리
汉字赤衫 · 中衣 · 中單 · 襌衣 · 속저고리
日语名称
汉字 襦袢

中衣東亞傳統服裝(漢服韓服和服越服琉裝)外衣和內衣之間的服飾。又稱中襌中单襌衣。「禪衣」又專指衬于冕服、爵弁等礼服内的素纱衬衣(亦即[1]),禮服配的中單在赤色的衣领上刺绣有纹饰,唐代以前的文献记载,多作“”纹。黼,斧形纹饰,意寓能决断。是古代冕服上所施一十二章纹之一。

一些款式的服裝穿著後會露出中衣衣領,突出衣服的層次。

中衣與中單

「中衣」專指衣長至衣长齐胯到齐大腿不等的上衣,「中單」則專指身长齐脚的中衣。一般以「中衣」一名概括之。日語稱半身中衣為「半襦袢」,全身中單則稱為「長襦袢」。漢服常服用的中衣多為素色、無花紋,衣領與衣身同色,韓服官服用中衣為白色有暗花,和服的中衣則常有衣領與衣身不同色和有圖案。半身中衣下身會配中褲中裙

中單、中襌或中衣三名見於古籍,如《禮記[2]》、《說文解字》、《漢書》等等。

用途

中单多用作朝服、服的裡衣[3]。中衣、中单也指一般的裡衣[4];類似後世的汗衫[5],如「青鲜支中单」和「葛中单」。

現代的發展和演變

由於現代人不習慣穿多層衣服,於是出現了代替中衣的假領。此外,為了方便配襯不同顏色的外衣,又出現了可替換半衿,使用時縫於中衣領上,免卻購買多件不同顏色中衣的麻煩。

註釋

  1. ^ 汉刘熙《释名·释衣服》:「中衣,言在小衣之外,大衣之中也。」
  2. ^ 《礼记·郊特牲》:「绣黼丹朱中衣」
  3. ^ 《晋书》卷二五《舆服志》:「(皇太子)衮衣九章,白纱绛缘中单,绛缯韠,采画织成衮带,金辟邪首,紫绿二色带,采画广领、曲领各一,赤舄绛袜……释奠,则远游冠,玄朝服,绛缘中单。」绛缘中单指镶有深红色缘边的中单。
  4. ^ 敦煌汉简释文》1144: 单襦、复襦各二领,单衣、中衣各二领。
  5. ^ 《太平御览》卷四〇三引虞预《会稽典录》:“郑弘为灵文乡啬夫。民有弟用兄钱者,未还之,嫂诣弘诉之。弘卖中单为叔还钱。”注:“即今之汗衫也。”则中单可作汗衫。马缟《中华古今注》卷中:“汗衫,盖三代之衬衣也。《礼》曰中单。汉高祖与楚交战,归帐中,汗透,遂改名汗衫。”

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