Ікат

Ікат
Выява
Культура culture of Indonesia[d]
Паходзіць з Інданезія
Краіна паходжання
Лагатып Вікісховішча Медыяфайлы на Вікісховішчы

Ікат (з малайскай мовы: mengikat = завязваць, заварочваць) — ярка афарбаваная тканіна з недакладнымі контурамі ўзору. Узоры ствараюцца шляхам абкручвання або пакрыцця выбраных частак нітак асновы або ўтку перад фарбаваннем  (чэшск.) (бел., каб колер не мог пранікаць у схаваныя месцы[1].

Вытворчы працэс

Вытворчасць тканіны ў тэхніцы ікату вельмі працаёмкая і патрабуе прафесійнага вопыту, часткова лічыцца мастацкім рамяством  (чэшск.) (бел.[2]. Усе этапы робяцца ўручную з шырокім дыяпазонам рэгіянальных варыяцый у тэхнічных дэталях. Агульнапрызнаныя тры тыпы ікату: асноўны, утковы і (поўны) ікат з афарбаваных нітак асновы і ўтку.

Перад фарбаваннем некалькі нітак звязваюць у джгут і абраныя месцы абгортваюць травінкамі ці пакрываюць пластом воску. Струны прапускаюць праз кантэйнеры (у асноўным) з некалькімі колерамі запар і прасоўваюць у рамку для сушкі.

Для ткацтва выкарыстоўваюцца розныя прылады (розныя па рэгіёнах) — ад простых рам (паясны ткацкі станок  (чэшск.) (бел.) і спецыяльна прыстасаваных драўляных падставак да ткацкіх станкоў[3].

Гісторыя

Самыя старыя[4] захаваныя рэшткі ікатных тканін былі знойдзены на Блізкім Усходзе ў XX стагоддзі, але малюнкі ікату ў індыйскай пячоры былі створаны яшчэ ў VII стагоддзі. Паходжанне тэхнікі ікат адназначна не даказана, яе выкарыстанне распаўсюдзілася ад Японіі праз Азію[5][6] і Афрыку да Паўднёвай Амерыкі[7]. (У Еўропе вытворчасць ікату вядома толькі на Мальёрцы[8]).

Аб’ём вытворчасці ікату не рэгіструецца ні ў рэгіянальным масштабе, ні ва ўсім свеце.

  • Ткацкі стан
    Ткацкі стан
  • Ікат з шаўковай асновай і баваўняным утком
    Ікат з шаўковай асновай і баваўняным утком
  • Тайскі ўтковы ікат 1940
    Тайскі ўтковы ікат 1940
  • Шаўковы ікат з фарбаваннем асноўных і ўтковых нітак (Заходняя Індыя, пачатак XIX стагоддзя)
    Шаўковы ікат з фарбаваннем асноўных і ўтковых нітак (Заходняя Індыя, пачатак XIX стагоддзя)

Зноскі

  1. ↑ Denninger/Giese: Textil- und Modelexikon, Deutscher Fachverlag Frankfurt/Main 2006, ISBN 3-87150-848-9, str. 327
  2. ↑ Video o výrobě ikatu: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OAnnvPEOl8
  3. ↑ Výrobní postup pro indický ikat: http://www.maharanis.de/infos/sari/produktion-handgewebte-saris-6.aspx Архівавана 23 ліпеня 2015.
  4. ↑ Historie ikatu: http://rlmresearchjournal.blogspot.de/2012/02/ikat.html Архівавана 23 ліпеня 2015.
  5. ↑ Ikat v Uzbekistánu: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m/album-with-nested-carousel18/
  6. ↑ Ikat v Indonésii: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m/album-with-nested-carousel18/
  7. ↑ Jihoamerický ikat: https://backstrapweaving.wordpress.com/2010/03/05/backstrap-weaving-cross-knit-looping-tutorial-and-ikat/
  8. ↑ Ikat na Mallorce: http://teixitsriera.com/en/mallorca-fabrics/mallorca-ikat-fabric/ Архівавана 23 ліпеня 2015.

Літаратура

  • Rowe/Miller/Meisch: Weaving and Dyeing in Highland Ecuador, University of Texas Press 2009, ISBN 9780292774681

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