Tapis (Rejang: ꤳꤶꥇꤼ꥓; Indonesian: kain tapis or simply tapis) is a traditional Tenun style and also refers to resulting cloth that originated from Lampung, Indonesia.[5][6][7][8] It consists of a striped, naturally-coloured cloth embroidered with warped and couchedgold thread. Traditionally using floral motifs, it has numerous variations. It is generally worn ceremonially, although it can be used as a decoration. It is considered one of the symbols of Lampung and Lampungese.[9]
Production
Tapis craftswoman embroider the basic design pattern in the tapis-making process at Lampung, Indonesia
Tapis is generally made by Lampungese women. It consists of a woven, naturally coloured fabric with warped gold and silk embroidery.[10][11] The gold thread, shaped in stripes, chevrons, and checks, contrasts the colours of the fabric.[10][11]Tapis can also be decorated with beads, mica chips, or old colonial coins.[10][12][13]
The gold embroidery is affixed using couching techniques, minimalizing waste.[14] The gold thread is attached in sections, then couched with a different, less expensive, thread at turns. This ensures that none of the gold thread is used in a non-visible area.[14][15]
Traditionally, tapis has floral motifs. However, modern tapis may also be based on the weaver's own design and include non-floral motifs, such as Arabic calligraphy.[13] Other designs may include snakes, ships, and mythical creatures.[11] Some tapis, called tapis tua (old tapis), are covered entirely in golden embroidery.[16]
A Lampungese woman (right) wearing a tapis sarong, with old coins hanging from the bottom
Traditionally, tapis is worn as a sarong for weddings, Eid ul-Fitr celebrations, and welcoming ceremonies. However, tapis can also be used as a wall decoration.[13] When worn, it forms a cylinder around the wearer's legs.[18]
Reception
Tapis has come to be seen as a symbol of Lampung.[10] Some people describes tapis as having "exceptional beauty and sophistication",[19] while some describes viewing tapis as "like seeing countless possibilities in art and life portrayed in cloth".[15]
The price of tapis reflects its age. Generally, the older a tapis the more it costs. Antique tapis are also collectors items, collected by both Indonesians and foreigners.[10]
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