Oriane Bertone

Oriane Bertone
Oriane Bertone, Giravuelta
Personal information
NationalityFrench
Born (2005-03-10) March 10, 2005 (age 19)
Réunion, Overseas France
Height164 cm (5 ft 4⅛ in)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forYoungest person to solve a V14 (8B+) boulder problem
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  France
World Championships
Silver medal – second place 2023 Bern Bouldering
World Cup
Gold medal – first place Prague 2023 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Salt Lake City 2024 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Seoul 2023 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Seoul 2022 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Salt Lake City 2021 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Meiringen 2021 Bouldering
European Championships
Bronze medal – third place 2022 Munich Bouldering

Oriane Bertone (born March 10, 2005) is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.

Climbing career

Rock climbing

In 2018, when she was 12 years old, Bertone became the youngest climber to send a V14 (8B+) graded boulder problem when she solved Golden Shadow in Rocklands (South Africa).[1] In 2020, aged 14, she redpointed the sport climbing route, Panonoramix et les cyclopes, in Saint Léger at grade 8c+ (5.14c).

Competition climbing

In 2019, she started competing in international youth competition climbing events, where she won multiple gold medals in both competition lead climbing and competition bouldering.

In 2021, Bertone made her IFSC Climbing World Cup debut at age 16 at the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen, where she advanced to the final and won a silver medal.[2]

In 2023, Bertone won her first IFSC Climbing World Cup gold medal at the Boulder World Cup in Prague, beating Janja Garnbret in doing so.[3] She went on to win a silver medal in bouldering at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships and secure a spot for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing first in the European Boulder and Lead Climbing Olympic Qualifier.[4][5]

In 2024, Bertone finished in eighth place in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[6]

Personal life

Bertone was born in Nice in 2005, and grew up on the island of Réunion, a territory of France, to an Italian father and French mother.[7] [8]

Rankings [9]

European Youth Championships

Discipline 2019

Youth B

Boulder 1
Lead 1

Youth World Championships

Discipline 2019

Youth B

Boulder 1
Lead 1

European Championships

Discipline 2022
Boulder 3

World Championships

Discipline 2023
Boulder 2

IFSC World Cup

Podiums

Season First Second Third Total
2021 2 2
2022 1 1
2023 1 1 2
2024 1 1
Total 1 5 0 6

Notable ascents

Boulder problems

8C (V15):

  • Satan I Helvete - Bas, Fontainebleau (France) - 2020 [10]

8B+ (V14):

8B (V13):

  • Psychopad - Réunion - 2017[12]
  • Le Spartiate direct assis - Réunion - 2018[13]
  • Fragile Steps - RockLands (South Africa) - 2017[14]
  • Trafic - Fontainebleau - 2018
  • The master Key - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
  • Bio Affinity - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
  • Ray of light - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Leopard cave extended - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Agamemnon - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Fata I Helvete - Fontainebleau - 2020

Redpointed routes

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

References

  1. ^ a b "12-year-old Oriane Bertone boulders 8B+". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  2. ^ "Gold for Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra at Meiringen Boulder World Cup". Gripped. 17 April 2021.
  3. ^ "Bertone and Lee take Gold at Prague Boulder WC | Climber Magazine". www.climber.co.uk. Retrieved 2024-09-14.
  4. ^ Neyer, Eric (2023-08-13). "2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Bern, Switzerland". Climbing House. Retrieved 2024-09-14.
  5. ^ "OLYMPIC TICKETS TO PARIS 2024 AWARDED TO ORIANE BERTONE AND TOBY ROBERTS". October 29, 2023. Retrieved October 29, 2023.
  6. ^ "NEWS: Paris 2024 Sport Climbing: Women's Boulder & Lead Final - "even sweeter" Gold for Garnbret". www.ukclimbing.com. 2024-08-10. Retrieved 2024-09-14.
  7. ^ "Oriane Bertone". Olympics.com. 2023-09-24. Retrieved 2024-07-29.
  8. ^ "Oriane Bertone". e9planet.com. Retrieved 2024-08-10.
  9. ^ "Profile and ranking of Oriane Bertone". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  10. ^ "Oriane Bertone, 15 Years Old, Climbs V15 First Ascent!". RockandIce.com. 27 May 2020. Retrieved 2020-05-27.
  11. ^ Brown, Nick (18 January 2021). "15-Year-Old Oriane Bertone Climbs Font 8B+".
  12. ^ "Psychopad, second 8B | V13 by Oriane Bertone". OnBouldering.com. 2017-12-12. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  13. ^ Grimper. "Oriane Bertone ouvre un nouveau bloc extrême à la Réunion et propose 8b". Grimper.com : l'actualité de l'escalade, tests matériel d'escalade, salles d'escalade (in French). Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  14. ^ Staff, Climbing (20 January 2017). "Oriane Bertone Sends V13 at Age 11". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  15. ^ Grimper. "Oriane Bertone s'offre un 8c/8c+". Grimper.com : l'actualité de l'escalade, tests matériel d'escalade, salles d'escalade (in French). Retrieved 2019-09-29.

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