Jonathan Siegrist (born 27 August, 1985) is an American rock climber who is regarded as one of the world's most prolific extreme sport climbers, and who has redpointed, and made numerous first free ascents, of a large number of sport climbing routes at and above the grade of 9a (5.14d).[1] Siegrist's breadth of experience at the world's most extreme sport climbing grades, means that he is often looked to for guidance regarding the grading of extreme sport routes in America.[1] While principally known as a sport climber, he has repeated some of the world's hardest traditional climbing routes.[6]
Climbing career
Siegrist began climbing at an early age with his father Bob Siegrist, who was an established 5.13 rock climber, but only started climbing seriously in about 2004, then aged 18.[4][7]
In 2014, aged 28, Siegrist climbed his first 9a+ (5.15a) graded route when he redpointedChris Sharma's famous 2001 sport climbing route, Realization/Biographie.[9] Over the following year, Siegrist became only the fifth person in history to complete the "9a+ Trilogy",[2][a] adding La Rambla, and Papichulo.[10] In 2017, Siegrist cemented his status at the 9a+ grade, with ascents of Pachamama, Joe Mama and Chaxi, all completed in one six-week trip to the famous Oliana crag in Spain.[10]
In May 2018, Siegrist came to wider attention with only the second repeat of Sharma's groundbreaking route, Jumbo Love, which was Siegrist's first route at the grade of 9b (5.15b).[11][12] In 2019, he repeated a second notable 9b graded route making the third repeat of La Planta de Shiva in Spain,[13] and making his own first free ascent (FFA) of a 9a+ (5.15a) route with All You Can Eat in the US.[14][15] Over the next few years, Siegrist would create several other new 9a+ graded routes,[14] and in 2022, he completed his first FFA of a 9b (5.15b) route with Event Horizon, one of America's hardest sport climbing routes.[16]
Traditional climbing
While Siegrist is known as a sport climber, he has repeated some of the world's hardest traditional climbs, including Sonnie Trotter's internationally famous 2007 route, The Path (5.14a R), and the even harder but less repeated route, The Almighty (5.14a/b R), by Ty Mack.[6] In 2016, Siegrist made the first repeat of Tommy Caldwell's 2013 route, Direct Dunn-Westbay (5.14a/b), belayed by his 66-year-old father, Bob.[7]
Flex Luthor – Fortress of Solitude, Colorado (US) – November 2022. Third repeat of Tommy Caldwell's 2003 route, which Siegrist downgraded to 9a+, saying that it was much easier than the other 9b's he had done to date.[27]
5.14a (8b+) R. The Path – Lake Louise (Canada) – August 2018. Repeat of Sonnie Trotter's famous 2007 route; at the time, it was one of the world's hardest traditional routes.[6]
5.14a/b (8b+/c). Direct Dunn-Westbay – The Diamond, Colorado (US) – August 2016. First repeat of Tommy Caldwell's 2013 multi-pitch route;[39] Siegrist was belayed on the route by his 66-year-old father, Bob Siegrist;[7] also one of the world's hardest traditional climbs.[6]
5.14a/b (8b+/c) R. The Almighty – Teyton Canyon, Wyoming (US) – July 2013. First repeat of Ty Mack's 2011 route;[40] one of the world's hardest.[6]
5.13d (8b) R. Enter the Dragon – The Fins, Lost River Range, Idaho (US) – September 2012. First ascent, and Siegrist's hardest traditional FFA.[41]
^ abRealization, La Rambla and Papichulo has become known as the "9a+ trilogy", as they are regarded as classic benchmark 9a+/5.15a test-pieces for extreme sport climbers.[35][2] They were the first-ever three 9a+ routes that Siegrist climbed.[36]
^"Flor on La Rambla!". UP Climbing. 19 February 2021. Retrieved 16 June 2022. La Rambla is one of the most known 9a+ in the whole world, a real dream for generations of climbers. Together with Papichulo and Biographie, the line in Siurana forma makes the Trilogy 9a+, and it is the most repeated on the grade.
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