The Crêpe bretonne (krampouezenn in the Breton language) is a traditional dish in Lower Brittany, a region of France. It can be served plain, or with sweet or savoury fillings. The Crêpe bretonne can be made of wheat (sweet crêpe) or buckwheat (savoury crêpe). The latter is less well-known and should not be confused with the buckwheat pancake typical of Upper Brittany, which has a different recipe.
History
The cultivation of buckwheat would have arrived in the region with the crusades of the 12th century. Buckwheat flour (for kig ha farz and buckwheat bread) is attested in Breton cuisine from the 15th century, and buckwheat crêpes (Upper Brittany) from the 16th century. The crêpe is eaten by hand or dipped in soup to thicken it. Buckwheat paste is also used to prepare porridge. Stendhal wrote in his book Memoirs of a tourist (1838) that “The part of Brittany where Breton is spoken lives on buckwheat flour crêpes”.[1][2]
There is a label of protected origin for buckwheat flour from Brittany; the association Blé noir tradition Bretagne brings together over 800 producers, as well as some 10 millers, to promote the use of Breton flour (some 4,000 tons per year). In the mid-20th century, owing to the emigration of many Bretons, Breton crêperies started opening elsewhere in France, especially in Paris, in the Montparnasse district, and in other countries around the world.
Making
Crêpes being made on a billig
Traditionally, the batter is cooked in a specific device called billig in Breton, galetiere in the local French dialect (galettoire or tuile in Upper Brittany).
The billig is a typically Breton circular cast iron cooking plate.
The batter is spread out onto a disc with a small spatula called a rozell (Breton), rouable or raclette in the local French dialect. Crêpes based on the Breton recipes are usually made with a simple crêpière (or frying pan).
The batter requires energy to aerate the dough and precise gestures to spread it on the billig. The rouable or the scraper must be held with flexibility and the spatula must permit easily turning the cake without breaking it.
Contrary to its cousin the galette, the crêpe bretonne must be quite thin and crispy!
Wheat and buckwheat versions
For those among the Bretons very much attached much to the traditions of Brittany, the krampouezhenn (plural: krampouezh) can refer either to the salty preparation with buckwheat flour, or the sweet version made from wheat. There are two traditional crepes of Lower Brittany:
One based on wheat flour (bleud gwinizh in Breton). The traditional batter is made of eggs, flour, sugar and milk, and is usually eaten sweetened.
One based on buckwheat flour (bleud ed-du). The traditional batter is made of buckwheat flour, mixed with a maximum of 30% of wheat flour, water and salt (some people add eggs or milk); it is usually eaten salted.
Difference from galettes
The galette prevails in Upper Brittany (Ille-et-Vilaine, Loire-Atlantique, eastern parts of Morbihan and Côtes-d'Armor).
The crêpe bretonne prevails in Lower Brittany (Finistère, part of Morbihan and Côtes-d’Armor).
