Following the emigration of Cantonese people from Hong Kong to Southeast Asia and the Western world, these authentic Cantonese restaurants began appearing in many Chinatownsoverseas. From 1980 to 1986, an estimated 21,000 people permanently left Hong Kong each year, and from 1987 the numbers rose sharply to 48,000 people a year[2] and continued to increase dramatically following the Tiananmen Square protests of 1989.
Many Chinese restaurants in the United Kingdom are actually Cantonese take-out restaurants, with few people recognizing the difference between Cantonese and mainstream Chinese.
The origin of Cantonese restaurants was the tea-house. Tea-houses were places where people met to drink tea during China's imperial history. They were popular in southern China where people used to love drinking tea. Therefore, tea-houses were always characterised as a social function to gather people.
Many early Chinese restaurants were influenced by the Cantonese people. Southern China is famous for nice weather benefiting agriculture. Therefore, many regional Chinese cuisines in fact originated in Southern China, although one managed to gain immense popularity as Cantonese cuisine.
Tea house: chaa lau (Chinese: 茶樓), is a place serving only tea, dim sum and simple dishes.
Wine house: jau lau (Chinese: 酒樓), is a place serving banquets. i.e. 9-course menu usually for a table of 12 guests. From the early 20th century, jau lau started providing tea and dim sum like chaa lau. Thus only a few chaa lau remain in business.
Seafood restaurants (Chinese: 海鮮酒家), are restaurants that specialise in live seafood dishes.
Modern Cantonese dishes are a far cry from their early roots in Guangzhou. They include generous use of off-the-shelf condiments, enriched by natural and artificial additives, boosting uncanny colour and flavour. Most Chinese restaurants nowadays cannot afford to cook with 100% raw herbs and spices.
Business
Nearly all Cantonese restaurants provide yum cha, dim sum, dishes, and banquets with their business varying between the hour of the day. Some restaurants try to stand out by becoming more specialised (focusing on hot pot dishes or seafood, for example), while others offer dishes from other Chinese cuisines such as Sichuan, Shanghai, Fujian (Teochew cooking, a regional variation of Guangzhou is similar to that of Fujian), Hakka, and many others.
A new kind of Cantonese restaurant is quickly spreading overseas and mainland China, often referred to as Hong Kong-style jau lau (Chinese: 香港式酒樓) outside Hong Kong.
Michelin-starred restaurants
In the inaugural 2009 Hong Kong and Macau edition of the Michelin Guide, 14 restaurants received stars including ten with one star, three with two stars and the maximum of three stars to Lung King Heen at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong helmed by Chef de cuisineChan Yan-tak. It remains as the only Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong to carry such distinction.[3]
Other Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurants includes:[4][5]
Fook Lam Moon - one star in 2009 edition, received their second one for their Wanchai branch and one star for their Kowloon branch in the 2010 edition.[6]
Yung Kee - one star received in the 2009 edition but on 1 December 2011, it was relegated to "Bib Gourmand" section of the guide's 2012 edition.[7]
In the 2013 edition, independent restaurant Pang's Kitchen in Happy Valley was awarded one star.[8]
Historical customs
Yum cha has a rich history and customs have been developed.
For the traditional Chinese Restaurant, all tables must be round. Food is served in the middle of the table and dishes are shared among the people at table. This is why yum cha is regarded as a social function. The design of the table helps to foster communication between people.
A usual practice is whenever you see others’ teacup is emptied, you would help them, especially the elders, to refill the tea. It is a Chinese custom to tap fingers on the table near your cup twice as a sign of reverence and thanks. [5] Parents usually teach their children to practice filial piety to elders by refilling tea and serving food to them.
Chinese restaurants abroad
From the 1980s, there were several migrating waves in China. Among the migrants, many chefs brought along their skills and developed a Chinese food industry overseas. [6] Some enterprises brought capital with them to open up Chinese restaurants abroad. Migrants brought Chinese cuisine and its eating culture overseas. And it became the main type of business of Chinese immigrants. However they are not gaining acceptance by most of the non-Chinese locals until the 20th century.[9] Therefore, the younger generation has tend to change the image of Chinese cuisine from a cheap to trendy image.[10] Alan Yau, the CEO of Soft chow, who changed the Chinese cuisine industry in a professional way, for him the past is a template to refashion and resist.[11] He is both troubled and inspired by his own history in Spain, it is reported that there were eight hundred Chinese restaurants in Madrid and one hundred in Barcelona.[7] In recent times, the number of Chinese restaurants in the United States is three times more than the McDonald's franchise. [8]
^Wiltshire, Trea. [First published 1987] (republished & reduced 2003). Old Hong Kong - Volume One. Central, Hong Kong: Text Form Asia books Ltd. ISBN Volume One 962-7283-59-2
^Manion, Melanie. (2004) Corruption by Design: Building Clean Government in Mainland China and Hong Kong. Harvard University press. ISBN0-674-01486-3
^ abChristopher DeWolf; Doug Meigs (3 October 2011). "The best Hong Kong dim sum". CNN Travel. Archived from the original on November 29, 2012. Retrieved 5 December 2012.
^ ab一星遭謫 鏞記「跌落凡塵」, Apple Daily (in Chinese), 2 December 2011, archived from the original on July 15, 2014, retrieved 2011-12-01
^Pang, Leo (January 2016). "Regional Chinese Cuisine: The Professionalization of Regional Chinese Restaurants in Sydney". Journal of Chinese Dietary Culture. 12: 21–62.
