Ulos

Ulos
TypeArt fabric
MaterialSilk and cotton
Place of originIndonesia (North Sumatra)

Ulos is the traditional tenun fabric of the Batak people of North Sumatra in Indonesia.[1] The ulos is normally worn draped over the shoulder or shoulders, or in weddings to ceremonially bind the bride and groom together. Ulos are traditionally hand-woven. With increasing modernization, ulos lost its significance.[2]

In traditional marriage ceremony, the ulos is given by the bride's parents to the groom's mother as ulos pargomgom.[3][4]

History

Traditional Batak tailors making tenun ulos in Huta Raja village, North Sumatra, Indonesia

According to the Batak people, there are three sources of warmth for humans: Sun, Fire, and Ulos. They created something that could give them warmth, also believed to be able to give the men bravery and the women strength against infertility. At first, Ulos was only used as an ordinary cloth, but it later developed into a symbol of love and traditional ceremony requirements.[5]

There are many kinds and motifs of ulos. If ulos is used by a man, the upper part of it is called ande-ande, the lower called singkot, and the one used on the head is called tali-tali, or bulang-bulang. Ulos Jugja, Sadum, Ragidup, and Runjat are only used on some occasions.[5]

Usage

Toba Batak people performing a traditional dance wearing ulos

When Ulos is used by a female, the bottom is called haen, the back is called hoba-hoba, and if it is used as a scarf, it is called ampe-ampe; if used as a head cover, it is called saong; and if used to carry a baby, it is called parompa. The females usually wear a black long dress and head cover.[2] Siabithonon (worn on the body as a shirt or sarong) ulos are ragidup, sibolang, runjat, and jobit. Sihadanghononton (used as head cover) ulos are sirara, sumbat, bolean, mangiring, surisuri, and sadum. Sitalitalihononton (to be tied at the hip) ulos are tumtuman, mangiring, and padangrusa.[2][6]

Ulos as a love symbol is called mangulosi. In Batak culture, mangulosi (giving ulos) is a symbol of love to the receiver. There are common rules: mangulosi can only be done by people who have a family relationship or to give it to lower social status people. For example, parents can mangulosi their children, but not the opposite.[7] To mangulosi a child who gives birth to their first child, the ulos given is ragidup sinagok. Ulos given to a special guest is ulos ragidup silingo.[6]

Production

Ulos is made with a manual loom machine. A spinner (Sorha) is used to make cotton into yards. Palabuan (periuk tanah, an earthenware pot) is used to save coloring water. Ulos are made of cotton.[2]

See also

References

  1. ^ antaranews.com (April 12, 2021). "Story of'ulos'reflects the strength of Indonesia's creative economy". Antara News. Retrieved October 14, 2024.
  2. ^ a b c d Jamlima, Trick (September 30, 2013). "Indonesian Cultures: Ulos: the traditional cloth of the Batak people". Indonesian Cultures. Retrieved October 14, 2024.
  3. ^ "Arti kata: ulos pargomgom". Kamus Bahasa Batak Online Terlengkap (in Indonesian). Retrieved October 14, 2024.
  4. ^ Utami, Silmi Nurul (October 21, 2022). "Ulos: Pengertian, Sejarah, dan Jenis-jenisnya" [Ulos: Definition, History, and Types]. Kompas (in Indonesian). Retrieved October 14, 2024.
  5. ^ a b "Ulos: A Batak Symbol of Warmth, Affection, and Social Status". Indoindians.com. April 2, 2024. Retrieved October 14, 2024.
  6. ^ a b Napitupulu, Nurul Puspita; Amelia, Pasya; Riana Aritonang, Ribka; Afri Yuli, Rivani (November 4, 2021). "Analisis Perlunya Kain Ulos Untuk Upacara Adat Kematian Etnis Pakpak" – via SCRIBD.
  7. ^ Aldi, Nizar (July 21, 2024). "Tradisi Mangulosi Simbol Perlindungan Suku Batak". detiksumut (in Indonesian). Retrieved October 14, 2024.

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