2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships

2021 World Championships
Logo of the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships
VenueIrina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace and CSKA Universal Sports Hall[1]
LocationRussia Moscow, Russia
Dates16–21 September 2021
Competitors302[1] from 41[2] nations
Irina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace, venue for the final rounds of all three disciplines

The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships was the 17th edition of the competition climbing event. It was held in Moscow, Russia from 16 to 21 September 2021, alongside the 2021 IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships.[3]

Although the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) had banned Russia from hosting or bidding for a world championship event in any sport until December 2022 due to several doping violations, the IFSC announced in February 2021 that the event would remain in Russia, echoing the Court of Arbitration for Sport's ruling that events had to be reassigned "unless it is legally or practically impossible to do so."[4]

Two venues were used during the championships: the Irina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace and the CSKA Universal Sports Hall.[2]

Medalists

Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead  Jakob Schubert (AUT)  Luka Potočar (SLO)  Hamish McArthur (GBR)
Men's Bouldering  Kokoro Fujii (JPN)  Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)  Manuel Cornu (FRA)
Men's Speed  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)  Erik Noya Cardona (ESP)  Noah Bratschi (USA)
Men's Combined  Yannick Flohé (GER)  Philipp Martin (GER)  Fedir Samoilov (UKR)
Women's Lead  Seo Chae-hyun (KOR)  Natalia Grossman (USA)  Laura Rogora (ITA)
Women's Bouldering  Natalia Grossman (USA)  Camilla Moroni (ITA)  Staša Gejo (SRB)
Women's Speed  Natalia Kałucka (POL) Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina (CFR)[a]  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
Women's Combined  Jessica Pilz (AUT)  Mia Krampl (SLO)  Elnaz Rekabi (IRI)

Medal table

  *   Host nation ( Climbing Federation of Russia)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Austria2002
2 United States1113
3 Germany1102
 Japan1102
5 Poland1012
 Ukraine1012
7 South Korea1001
8 Slovenia0202
9 Italy0112
10Climbing Federation of Russia Climbing Federation of Russia*0101
 Spain0101
12 France0011
 Great Britain0011
 Iran0011
 Serbia0011
Totals (15 entries)88824

Broadcast incident

On 18 September, the IFSC issued an apology after broadcasters showed a close-up of chalk handprints on Austrian climber Joanna Färber's bottom during the women's bouldering semi-finals in the event live feed. The federation removed the feed from its YouTube channel and re-uploaded an edited video without the footage it described as "objectification of the human body." This incident marked the second time in the season that the IFSC apologised for sexualised imagery, after a similar footage of Färber appeared on the live feed of the Innsbruck World Cup in June 2021.[6]

Schedule

All times and dates use Moscow Time (UTC+3:00)[7]

Q Qualifications SF Semi-finals F Finals
B Bouldering L Lead S Speed
September 2021 16th
Thu 		17th
Fri 		18th
Sat 		19th
Sun 		20th
Mon 		21st
Tue
Men S S B B B L L L
Women B B

Lead

Men

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[8]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 Austria Jakob Schubert 38 3 33+ 5 4.69 40+ TOP
2 Slovenia Luka Potočar 36+ 8 29+ 9 9.25 40+ TOP
3 United Kingdom Hamish McArthur 38 3 33+ 5 3.32 TOP 46+
4 Czech Republic Martin Stráník 36+ 8 28 18 13.44 40+ 46
5 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 37+ 6 36+ 1 2.55 38 46
6 Germany Sebastian Halenke 36 12 30 8 10.39 40 44+
7 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 36+ 8 35 2 4.87 37+ 44+
8 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 36 12 26 29 19.79 40 34+

Women

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[9]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun TOP 1 TOP 1 1.73 TOP TOP
2 United States Natalia Grossman TOP 1 41 4 2.45 TOP 37 (4:22)
3 Italy Laura Rogora 44 3 TOP 1 2.45 TOP 37 (5:01)
4 Austria Jessica Pilz 36+ 9 37+ 17 13.44 41+ 36+
5 United States Brooke Raboutou 37+ 5 40+ 5 5.48 39+ 35+
6 Japan Natsuki Tanii 42 19 38+ 14 26.52 41+ 32+
7 Climbing Federation of Russia Dinara Fakhritdinova 37+ 5 39+ 6 7.55 39+ 32+
8 France Salomé Romain 34+ 13 37+ 17 16.88 40 25+

Bouldering

Men

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[10]
1 Japan Kokoro Fujii 5t5z 9 6 2t4z 3 12 4t4z 6 6
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4t45z 8 6 3t3z 7 5 3t3z 6 6
3 France Manuel Cornu 4t5z 13 11 3t3z 8 5 2t3z 2 3
4 Climbing Federation of Russia Aleksey Rubtsov 3t5z 6 7 2t3z 9 6 2t3z 7 5
5 Israel Nimrod Marcus 3t4z 10 11 2t3z 3 5 0t2z 0 9
6 Slovenia Anže Peharc 4t5z 11 8 2t3z 7 7 0t2z 0 10

Women

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[11]
1 United States Natalia Grossman 4t5z 8 11 4t4z 8 8 4t4z 7 7
2 Italy Camilla Moroni 3t4z 7 14 4t4z 15 13 4t4z 13 11
3 Serbia Staša Gejo 4t4z 11 6 2t4z 4 9 2t4z 5 7
4 Climbing Federation of Russia Elena Krasovskaia 4t5z 8 8 3t4z 8 9 2t3z 2 4
5 United States Brooke Raboutou 5t5z 8 6 3t3z 11 11 2t3z 3 4
6 Switzerland Andrea Kümin 3t5z 5 8 3t3z 11 9 1t3z 3 3

Speed

Men

Final bracket[12]
Round of 16QuarterfinalsSemifinalsFinal
              
1
Poland Marcin Dzieński		5.83
16
Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin		5.76
Kazakhstan Rishat KhaibullinFall
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev5.80
8
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev		5.844
9
Italy Gian Luca Zodda		5.849
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev6.14
France Guillaume Moro6.47
4
United States John Brosler		5.72
13
Climbing Federation of Russia Aleksandr Shikov		Fall
United States John BroslerFall
France Guillaume Moro7.76
5
Climbing Federation of Russia Arsenii Bogomolov		6.07
12
France Guillaume Moro		5.75
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev5.73
Spain Erik Noya Cardona5.95
2
Climbing Federation of Russia Dmitrii Timofeev		Fall
15
Austria Tobias Plangger		6.01
Austria Tobias Plangger5.98
Spain Erik Noya Cardona5.87
7
Iran Reza Alipour		5.75
10
Spain Erik Noya Cardona		5.70
Spain Erik Noya Cardona5.74
United States Noah Bratschi6.06 Third place
3
Climbing Federation of Russia Vladislav Deulin		6.06
14
France Pierre Rebreyend		6.17
Climbing Federation of Russia Vladislav DeulinFallFrance Guillaume Moro8.46
United States Noah Bratschi5.84 United States Noah Bratschi6.31
6
United States Noah Bratschi		5.77
11
Kazakhstan Amir Maimuratov		5.91

Women

Final bracket[13]
Round of 16QuarterfinalsSemifinalsFinal
              
1
Poland Aleksandra Mirosław		7.37
16
Austria Laura Stöckler		12.37
Poland Aleksandra Mirosław7.10
France Capucine Viglione7.55
8
France Capucine Viglione		7.67
9
Poland Patrycja Chudziak		7.72
Poland Aleksandra MirosławFall
Poland Natalia Kałucka7.07
4
Poland Natalia Kałucka		7.44
13
Poland Aleksandra Kałucka		7.87
Poland Natalia Kałucka7.15
Climbing Federation of Russia Elizaveta Ivanova7.30
5
Climbing Federation of Russia Elizaveta Ivanova		7.69
12
Italy Beatrice Colli		8.13
Poland Natalia Kałucka7.18
Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina8.94
2
Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina		7.31
15
Germany Franziska Ritter		8.06
Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina7.60
Poland Anna BrozekFall
7
Poland Anna Brozek		7.73
10
Climbing Federation of Russia Mariia Krasavina		8.17
Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina7.09
Climbing Federation of Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk8.89 Third place
3
United States Emma Hunt		9.29
14
Ukraine Yelyzaveta Lavrykova		Fall
United States Emma Hunt9.41Poland Aleksandra Mirosław7.00
Climbing Federation of Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk7.61 Climbing Federation of Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk8.47
6
Climbing Federation of Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk		7.58
11
Ecuador Andrea Rojas		8.16

Combined

Men

Rank Name Lead Bouldering Speed Total[14]
Rank Pts Rank Pts Rank Pts
1st place, gold medalist(s) Germany Yannick Flohé 9 1 15 1 42 9 9.0
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Germany Philipp Martin 22 3 23 2 41 8 48.0
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Ukraine Fedir Samoilov 19 2 41 3 43 10 60.0
4 Germany Jan Hojer 32 4 43 4 32 4 64.0
5 Ecuador Carlos Granja 60 5 69 7 19 2 70.0
6 Ukraine Kostiantyn Pavlenko 89 9 85 10 17 1 90.0
7 Chinese Taipei Lin Chia-hsiang 72 7 55 6 37 6 252.0
8 Ukraine Sergii Topishko 65 6 47 5 48 15 450.0
9 Ecuador Nickolaie Rivadeneira 91 10 85 10 34 5 500.0
10 Ukraine Yaroslav Tkach 96 14 94 13 30 3 546.0
11 Ecuador Aaron Peñaranda 83 8 85 10 39 7 560.0
12 India Gaurav Kumar 93 11.5 85 10 46 13 1495.0
13 Turkey Ferhat Bekmez 97 15 85 10 44 11 1650.0
14 South Africa Joshua Bruyns 93 11.5 96 14 45 12 1932.0
15 Turkey Timur Taş 95 13 97 15 47 14 2730.0

Women

Rank Name Lead Bouldering Speed Total[15]
Rank Pts Rank Pts Rank Pts
1st place, gold medalist(s) Austria Jessica Pilz 4 1 35 5 24 4 20.0
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Slovenia Mia Krampl 19 3 29 4 23 3 36.0
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Iran Elnaz Rekabi 35 7 18 1 27 6 42.0
4 Kazakhstan Tamara Ulzhabayeva 61 10 43 7.5 18 1 75.0
5 Germany Hannah Meul 22 4 23 2.5 33 9 90.0
6 Germany Roxana Wienand 31 5 23 2.5 30 8 100.0
7 Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova 17 2 37 6 36 11 132.0
8 Ukraine Tetiana Kolkotina 69 11 73 11 20 2 242.0
9 Iran Mahya Darabian 50 8 49 9 25 5 360.0
10 Ukraine Margaryta Zakharova 57 9 43 7.5 28 7 472.5
11 Ukraine Nika Potapova 33 6 63 10 35 10 600.0

Notes

  1. ^ Results of Russian athletes are credited to the Climbing Federation of Russia (CFR).[5]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Более 300 спортсменов выступят на Чемпионате мира по скалолазанию в Москве
  2. ^ a b Shefferd, Neil (16 September 2021). "Boldyrev and Kalucka take speed titles on opening day of IFSC World Championships". inside the games. Retrieved 17 September 2021.
  3. ^ "World Championships Schedule and Livestream Links". GymClimber. 15 September 2021. Retrieved 17 September 2021.
  4. ^ Rest, Jonathan (19 February 2021). "IFSC stands by World Championships in Russia despite WADA hosting ban". Sportcal.
  5. ^ Dunbar, Graham (17 December 2020). "Russia can't use its name and flag at the next 2 Olympics". Associated Press News. Retrieved 17 September 2021.
  6. ^ Lock, Samantha (20 September 2021). "Close-up Footage of Climber's Butt Prompts Apology From Sporting Body". Newsweek. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
  7. ^ "IFSC - Climbing World Championships (B,L,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2021". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
  8. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - General result Men lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on 2021-09-21. Retrieved 21 September 2021.
  9. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - General result Women lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on 2021-09-21. Retrieved 21 September 2021.
  10. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - GENERAL RESULT BOULDER Men". IFSC. Archived from the original on 2021-09-18. Retrieved 20 September 2021.
  11. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - GENERAL RESULT BOULDER WOMEN". IFSC. Archived from the original on 2021-09-18. Retrieved 18 September 2021.
  12. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". IFSC. Retrieved 18 September 2021.
  13. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". IFSC. Retrieved 18 September 2021.
  14. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT COMBINED MEN". IFSC. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
  15. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT COMBINED WOMEN". IFSC. Retrieved 23 September 2021.