Jacques Balmat

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Jacques Balmat


Nazionalità	Italia
Alpinismo
Specialità
Conosciuto per	è stato il primo uomo ad aver raggiunto la cima del Monte Bianco, insieme a Michel Gabriel Paccard

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Jacques Balmat, detto le Mont Blanc (Chamonix, 19 gennaio 1762 – Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, 1834), contadino, cacciatore e cercatore di cristalli della valle di Chamonix.

Biografia

Nacque nella vallata di Chamonix, in una zona dell'omonima cittadina attualmente occupata dal quartiere des Pélerins.

Scomparve nel 1834, all'età di 72 anni, cadendo in un crepaccio nella vallata di Sixt mentre cercava, si dice, un filone d'oro.^[1] Il suo corpo non fu mai ritrovato.

Scalata del Monte Bianco

Lo stesso argomento in dettaglio: Monte Bianco § Ascensioni.

Cercatore di cristalli e cacciatore di camosci, all'età di 24 anni riuscì a raggiungere la vetta del Monte Bianco, in compagnia di Michel Gabriel Paccard, l'8 agosto 1786, passando fra i Rochers Rouges, sulla cresta Nord-Est della montagna ^[2].

Per questa impresa guadagnò la ricompensa promessa dallo scienziato ginevrino Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, dopo averlo accompagnato a sua volta in cima al Monte Bianco il 2 agosto 1787; la cordata era composta da 18 altre guide che trasportavano anche attrezzature scientifiche.

Attribuzione dello storico primato

Il suo compagno Paccard per un lungo periodo, a causa di gelosie e invidie, non fu menzionato nei racconti dell'epica scalata. Fu lo scrittore ginevrino Marc Théodore Bourrit a diffamarlo e screditarlo, e ad insistere nel voler attribuire a Balmat tutto il merito dell'impresa, anche se lo stesso Balmat, in una dichiarazione giurata, pubblicata sulla Gazzetta di Losanna disse il contrario^[3]. Solamente dopo il ritrovamento del diario del barone A. Von Gersdorff agli inizi del Novecento e poi di altri documenti ancora, il primato sarà definitivamente riconosciuto a Paccard^[3].

Suddito sardo

Per tutta la sua vita Jacques Balmat fu un suddito sardo, nato e morto nel Regno di Sardegna del quale la Savoia, culla dei reali d'Italia, a quei tempi era parte integrante.

Jacques Balmat detto le Mont Blanc

Vittorio Amedeo III, re di Sardegna, fiero per l'impresa del suo suddito, l'autorizzerà a farsi chiamare Jacques Balmat detto le Mont Blanc, e lo gratificherà con un premio in danaro.

Note

^ T. Louis Oxley, Jacques Balmat or The First Ascent of Mont Blanc: A True Story, Londra, Kerry & Endean, 1881. URL consultato il 5 ottobre 2012.
^ Thomas Graham Brown, Gavin Rylands de Beer, La conquista del Monte Bianco. La vera storia della prima ascensione, Res Gestae, 2023.
^ ^a ^b Umberto Pelazza, L'epopea al veleno della conquista del Bianco, su ana.it. URL consultato il 9 novembre 2010.

Bibliografia

Luciano Ratto, Michel Gabriel Paccard, un quasi torinese per primo sulla vetta del Bianco, Torino, Scàndere, annuario 1997-99, sezione C.A.I Torino, 1997/99, ISBN non esistente.
Gaston Rébuffat, Mont-Blanc, jardin féerique: historique des ascensions du Mont-Blanc, Denoël, 1987, ISBN 2-207-23396-0.
Jean-Pierre Spilmont, Jacques Balmat dit Mont-Blanc, Guérin, 1987.

Voci correlate

Storia delle Alpi

Altri progetti

Wikimedia Commons contiene immagini o altri file su Jacques Balmat

Collegamenti esterni

Balmat, Jacques, detto Mont-Blanc, su Treccani.it – Enciclopedie on line, Istituto dell'Enciclopedia Italiana.
Balmat, Jacques, su sapere.it, De Agostini.
(EN) Jacques Balmat, su Enciclopedia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc.

Controllo di autorità	VIAF (EN) 40514132 · ISNI (EN) 0000 0000 3111 890X · CERL cnp00817736 · LCCN (EN) n88003903 · GND (DE) 131654438 · BNF (FR) cb12002048x (data)

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