Quitón

Para el género de moluscos, véase Chiton.
Mujer con quitón.

El quitón (del griego χιτών), también denominado chitón o jitón,[1]​ es una prenda de vestir de la antigua Grecia. Era semejante a una túnica usada tanto por hombres como por mujeres con prenda interior. Se desconoce si debajo del quitón se llevaba otra prenda, como una camisa.[2]​

Consistía en una pieza de tela de forma rectangular, y se colocaba alrededor del cuerpo: para sacar el brazo derecho por el lado cerrado se practicaba una abertura. Sobre el hombro izquierdo se ataban los dos extremos del lado abierto, mediante fíbulas.[2]​ En el lado izquierdo la abertura dejaba al descubierto hasta el muslo, debajo del cual se prendía el quitón con un alfiler o se cosían las puntas.[2]​

Forma de colocación del quitón dórico

Al principio era más corto y confeccionado en lana el conocido como quitón dórico,[1]​ que carecía de mangas.[2]​ Posteriormente, el conocido como quitón jónico —ya en la antigua Atenas— evolucionó siendo más largo y elegante y fabricado en lino.[1]​ Ganó entonces en amplitud para llevarse con un cinturón o una cinta en torno a las caderas. La parte inferior se podía alargar, estirándola por debajo del cinturón, o acortar estirándola por encima.[2]​ Más tarde, en época de Pericles, los atenienses adoptaron de nuevo el quitón corto dorio.[2]​

Las mangas, que frecuentemente se cosían al quitón, podían cubrir hasta las muñecas, o únicamente la parte alta de los brazos.[2]​ El quitón con mangas largas lo lucen Escirón y Bóreas en la Torre de los Vientos de Atenas.[3]​

Bóreas representado con un quitón de mangas largas en la Torre de los Vientos.

El quitón de manga corta solían llevarlo los niños y las mujeres, como se aprecia en las representaciones artísticas. El quitón sin mangas era el distintivo de los ciudadanos libres.[3]​ Según los escritos, los artesanos y esclavos vestían quitón con ambos brazos al descubierto, al igual que la mitad del pecho.[3]​

En los hombres podía cubrir la pierna hasta mitad del muslo o descender hasta el pie. Se podía adornar con dibujos geométricos para los días festivos y ser llevado con un pallium (un tipo de abrigo). Cuando dejaba libre los dos hombros, se podían distinguir los hombres libres del resto.[1]​

Las mujeres lo llevaban largo. Con la aparición del lino, sustituyó progresivamente al peplo de lana, del que se diferenciaba en que no volvía a caer en pliegues sobre el pecho y se llevaba ahuecado sobre la cintura gracias a un cinturón.

En las Kore de la Época Arcaica, se aprecia que visten quitón largo, además del himatión.[1]​

Véase también

Referencias

  1. ↑ a b c d e Lajo Pérez, Rosina (1990). Léxico de arte. Madrid: Akal. p. 114. ISBN 978-84-460-0924-5. 
  2. ↑ a b c d e f g Guhl y Koner, 2002, p. 220.
  3. ↑ a b c Guhl y Koner, 2002, p. 221.

Bibliografía

  • Guhl, E.; Koner, W. (2002). Los griegos. Su vida y costumbres. Madrid: Edimat Libros. ISBN 84-8403-286-8. 

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