Upon his graduation from Yale in 1975, he moved to New York City where he worked for couturier Charles James as an unpaid apprentice until James's death in 1978. A friend of his from Yale, Karen Schulz, who was the set designer for a Broadway revival of Nikolai Gogol's The Inspector General, suggested that Long be hired to do costume designs for the show.[2] This marked Long's first Broadway production; he has since designed for over 60 Broadway shows.
In 2000 Long was chosen by the National Theatre Conference as its "Person of the Year" and was honored with the "Legend of Fashion" Award by the Art Institute of Chicago in 2003. He was inducted into the American Theater Hall of Fame for 2005.[3]
He remains active in many local activities throughout the state of North Carolina including working with Paul Green's The Lost Colony Outdoor Drama in Manteo, North Carolina which he and his family have been a part of since he was a young child. The Cameron Art Museum in Wilmington, North Carolina featured an exhibition of Long's designs titled "Between Taste and Travesty: Costume Designs by William Ivey Long."
"Long's creations have had a tendency to become as much of a celebrity as the people who wear them," wrote Encore Magazine's art columnist, Lauren Hodges. "His pieces are so lively that they seem to have personalities on their own. The movements the costumes were made for seem to reflect in the fabric. Each detail is lovingly stitched for the characters of the stage and speaks of the story itself, giving the viewer a little taste of the spectacle that is Broadway."
In June 2012, he was elected Chairman of The American Theatre Wing.[4][5] He was the first working theatre artist to hold this position since Helen Hayes.
Sexual assault allegations
In an August 2018 BuzzFeed News report, Long was accused of having sexually harassed a props assistant while working on The Lost Colony in 1996.[6] In November 2021, National Public Radio published an article detailing accusations of sexual abuse and predatory behavior against Long.[7] Long was accused of assaulting a costumer designer during the summer of 2001, and assaulting another props assistant/actor over multiple summers. A lawsuit against Long and others filed by a production manager for The Lost Colony was settled out of court. "Those accusations [in the lawsuit] included forcing one young man to have sex with another man at Long's direction, while an RIHA board member watched. The same man claimed that Long performed oral sex on him against his wishes, and that Long also tried to make him find 'young boys with whom Mr. Long could engage in homosexual activity.'"[7] Long has denied these allegations.
Don Quaintance and Deborah Velders, eds. (2007), Between Taste and Travesty: Costume Designs by William Ivey Long, Wilmington, North Carolina: Cameron Museum of Art | ISBN978-0-9793359-0-7
^Dodds, Richard. 2010. "Master of the Silhouettes: "Dreamgirls" Costume Designer William Ivey Long," Bay Area Reporter ("Arts & Entertainment" section) Vol. 40. No. 33 (19 August 2010), pp. 21, 32.