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Timeline of climbing the Matterhorn
Main article:
Matterhorn
Timeline
First ascent of the Matterhorn
,
engraving
by
Gustave Dore
1857
July: First attempt (from
Breuil
) by
Jean-Antoine Carrel
, Jean-Jacques Carrel, and
Amé Gorret
.
[
1
]
1858
August: Attempt by J. A. and J. J. Carrel. The
Grande Tour
is reached (3800 m).
[
1
]
1860
July 2: Attempt from Zermatt (East face) by Charles, Alfred and Sandbach Parker (c. 3500 m)
[
2
]
August: Attempt by
John Tyndall
, Vaughan Hawkins, J. J. Carrel (3960 m)
[
1
]
1861
July 4: Second attempt by the Parker brothers (c. 3570 m)
[
2
]
August 29: J. A. and J. J. Carrel. The
Crête du Coq
is reached (4032 m)
[
1
]
[
2
]
August 29–30: First attempt by
Edward Whymper
and Swiss guide (Lion ridge)
[
1
]
[
2
]
1862
January: First winter attempt (from Zermatt East face) by Thomas Stuart Kennedy guided by Peter Perren and
Peter Taugwalder
(c. 3350 m)
[
2
]
[
3
]
July 7–8: Attempt by E. Whymper, Reginald J. S. MacDonald, Johann zum Taugwald, Johann Krönig, Luc Meynet (3657 m)
[
1
]
[
2
]
July 9–10: Attempt by E. Whymper, R. J. S. MacDonald, J. A. Carrel, Pession (3960 m)
[
1
]
[
2
]
July 18–19: Solo attempt by E. Whymper (4084 m)
[
1
]
[
2
]
July 23–24: Attempt by E. Whymper, J. A. Carrel, César Carrel, L. Meynet (4008 m)
[
1
]
[
2
]
July 25–26: Attempt by E. Whymper, L. Meynet (4102 m)
[
1
]
[
2
]
July 27–28: Attempt by J. Tyndall,
Johann Joseph Bennen
[
de
]
, Anton Walters, J. A. Carrel, C. Carrel. The
Shoulder
is reached (
Pic Tyndall
, 4258 m)
[
1
]
[
2
]
1863
August 10–11: Attempt by E. Whymper, J. A. Carrel, C. Carrel, L. Meynet and two porters (4047 m)
[
1
]
[
2
]
1865
June 21: Attempt from the south east face (Furggen couloir) by E. Whymper,
Michel Croz
,
Christian Almer
, Franz Biner, L. Meynet (3414 m)
[
1
]
[
2
]
July: Attempt by J. A. Carrel, C. Carrel, Charles Gorret,
Jean-Joseph Maquignaz
[
fr
]
. Pic Tyndall, 4258 m
[
1
]
July 14:
First ascent
(Hörnli ridge) by E. Whymper,
Francis Douglas
,
Charles Hudson
,
Douglas Hadow
, Michel Croz, P. Taugwalder (father), Peter Taugwalder (son). Death of Douglas, Hudson, Hadow and Croz on the descent.
[
2
]
[
4
]
July 17:
Second ascent and first from the Italian side
by J.-A. Carrel and Jean-Baptiste Bich. A. Gorret, of the 1857 attempt, and Jean-Augustin Meynet stop just short of the summit.
[
2
]
[
5
]
1867
August 15: 3rd ascent. Second ascent from Breuil by J. A. Carrel, J. B. Bich, and Salomon Meynet guiding
Florence Crauford Grove
.
[
2
]
September 13: 4th ascent: First direct ascent of the Lion ridge as it is climbed today by Jean-Joseph and Jean-Pierre Maquignaz.
[
2
]
October 1–3: 5th ascent: From Breuil. J. J. and J. P. Maquignaz, C. Carrel and François Ansermin guiding William Leighton Jordan.
[
6
]
1868
July 25: 6th ascent: Second ascent via the Hörnli ridge by
Josef Marie Lochmatter
[
de
]
and
Peter Knubel
[
fr
]
guiding Julius Elliot.
[
2
]
July 28: 7th ascent: First traverse of the summit (Lion and Hörnli ridges) by J. Tyndall, J. J. and J. P. Maquignaz.
[
2
]
August 4: 8th ascent Second traverse of the summit (Hörnli and Lion ridges) by J. J. Maquignaz, Victor Maquignaz and Elie Pession guiding François Thioly and O. Hoiler.
[
2
]
August 3–4: 9th ascent: P. Knubel, Hans Baumann, Peter Bernett guiding George Edward Foster.
[
6
]
August 8: 10th ascent: J. M. Lochmatter, P. Knubel and Niklaus Knubel guiding
Paul Güssfeldt
.
[
6
]
1869
July 20: 15th ascent: J. A. Carrel, J. B. Bich, Alphonse Payot and
Michel Payot
[
fr
]
guiding
James Eccles
.
[
6
]
August 26: 16th ascent: Ascent of the Lion ridge by Joseph, Pierre and Emmanuel Maquignaz and B. Bich guiding
Robert Boothby Heathcote
; it was on this occasion that the guides fixed at the last bit the rope ladder which was called the Echelle Jordan, from the name of its donor.
[
2
]
1871
July 22: First ascent by a woman:
Lucy Walker
reached the summit with her father Frank Walker and Frederick Gardiner, guided by Heinrich and
Melchior Anderegg
, N. Knubel, P. Knubel and P. Perren.
[
2
]
[
5
]
September 5: First traverse by a woman:
Meta Brevoort
with
W.A.B. Coolidge
guided by
Christian Almer
,
Ulrich Almer
and N. Knubel.
[
5
]
1872
July 26: Traverse Breuil-summit-Zermatt in 18 hours by J. J. Maquignaz and Anton Ritz guiding J. Jackson.
[
2
]
[
7
]
1876
July 23: First ascent without mountain guides by John Brise Colgrove, Albert Harold Cawood and Arthur Cust.
[
2
]
[
7
]
1879
September 3: First ascent via the Zmutt ridge by
Albert F. Mummery
,
Alexander Burgener
, Johann Petrus and Augustin Gentinetta.
[
2
]
One hour later
William Penhall
,
Ferdinand Imseng
[
fr
]
and Louis Zurbrücken finished the first ascent (partially) over the west face (significantly overlapping the Zmutt Ridge route)
[
2
]
[
4
]
September 6: Second ascent of the Zmutt ridge by Baumann with guides J. Petrus and
Émile Rey
.
[
2
]
[
7
]
1880
July 16: A. Burgener,
Benedikt Venetz
and A. F. Mummery attempted the first ascent of the Furggen ridge. At the level of the Swiss Shoulder they were forced to traverse along the east face to the Swiss ridge, to climb to the summit by the ordinary route.
[
5
]
[
7
]
1881
August 4: Ascent by future US President
Theodore Roosevelt
, guided by Taugwalder.
[
8
]
[
9
]
1882
March 16: First winter ascent (Lion ridge) by J. A. Carrel, J. Baptiste Carrel and Louis Carrel guiding
Vittorio Sella
. Descent via the Hörnli ridge (17th).
[
4
]
1889
Ascent by Achille Ratti (later
Pope Pius XI
)
[
10
]
1894
Polish ascent by
Marian Smoluchowski
and other team.
[
11
]
1895
August 25:
Luigi Amedeo
, Duke of the Abruzzi, A. F. Mummery and
J. Norman Collie
made the ascent with the guide Josef Pollinger.
[
7
]
August 31: First descent of the Zmutt ridge by
Matthias Zurbriggen
and J. Pollinger guiding
Lily Bristow
.
[
5
]
1898
First solo ascent (Hörnli ridge) by
Wilhelm Paulcke
[
de
]
.
[
4
]
1906
September 1: First solo ascent of the Zmutt ridge by
Hans Pfann
[
fr
]
.
[
4
]
1911
September 9: First ascent via the Furggen ridge by
Mario Piacenza
with guides Jean-Joseph Carrel and Joseph Gaspard.
[
4
]
January 31: First winter ascent via the Hörnli ridge by
Charles Francis Meade
with the guides Josef Lochmatter and J. Pollinger.
[
4
]
1923
August 12: Attempt on the north face by
Alfred Horeschowsky
[
de
]
and Franz Piekielko. The summit was reached via the Hörnli ridge.
[
4
]
1928
August: Attempt on the north face by Kaspar Mooser and Victor Imboden.
[
12
]
1931
August 1: First ascent of the north face by the brothers
Franz
and
Toni Schmid
.
[
4
]
October 15: First ascent of the south face by Enzo Benedetti with guides
Louis Carrel
and Maurice Bich.
[
4
]
1932
August 12–13: First all-female unguided ascent by
Miriam Underhill
(United States) and
Alice Damesme
(France).
[
13
]
September 19: First complete ascent of the east face by Enzo Benedetti and Giuseppe Mazzotti with guides Louis and Lucien Carrel, M. Bich and Antoine Gaspard.
[
4
]
1934
Paul Petzoldt
traversed the Matterhorn and then retraced his route over the summit on the same day.
[
14
]
1936
First winter solo ascent via the Hörnli ridge by
Giusto Gervasutti
.
[
15
]
1948
March 25: First winter ascent via the Zmutt ridge by Henri Masson and Edmund Petrig.
[
15
]
1950
August 19: First ascent by a cat (Hörnli ridge). It climbed up entirely unaided, but made its descent in a guide's rucksack.
[
5
]
1959
July 22: First solo ascent of the north face by Dieter Marchart.
[
4
]
1961
Fast ascent by Ian Angell in 3 hours and 25 minutes.
[
16
]
1962
February 4: First winter ascent of the north face by Hilti von Allmen and
Paul Etter
[
de
]
.
[
4
]
August 13: First complete ascent of the west face by Renato Daguin and Giovanni Ottin.
[
4
]
All faces and ridges have been completely ascended
[
17
]
1965
February 22: In winter and alone,
Walter Bonatti
climbs a direct new route on the north face, the "North Face Direct". Bonatti set off on February 18, accompanied by three friends in order to simulate an ordinary day of alpine skiing. He prepared himself in secret behind a boulder, then for the next four days struggled against solitude, cold and technical difficulties.
[
4
]
[
18
]
July 13:
Yvette Vaucher
, climbing with her husband Michel Vaucher, becomes the first woman to climb the Matterhorn's north face.
[
19
]
1969
Ascent of the north face by
Jean Troillet
in 4 hours and 10 minutes.
[
20
]
1970
August Attempted ascent of the Swiss side of the Matterhorn by Japanese climbers Michio Oikawa and Masayuki Kobayashi who disappeared. Remains found in Sept 2014 and identified in August 2015
[
21
]
1971
December 23: First winter ascent via the south face by
Arturo Squinobal
and
Oreste Squinobal
.
[
4
]
1975
February 28: First winter ascent via the east face by René Arnold, Guido Bumann and Candide Pralong.
[
4
]
1977
February 16: First winter solo ascent of the Schmid route on the north face by
Tsuneo Hasegawa
.
[
4
]
1978
January 11: First winter ascent of the west face by Rolando Albertini, Marco Barmasse, Innocenzo Menabreaz, Leo Pession, A. Squinobal, O. Squinobal and Augusto Tamone. Death of Rolando Albertini.
[
4
]
March 10: First winter all-female ascent of the north face, the Schmid route, by Polish team
Anna Czerwińska
, Irena Kęsa,
Krystyna Palmowska
and
Wanda Rutkiewicz
.
[
22
]
1990
Mountain guide
Ulrich Inderbinen
makes his 370th and last ascent of the Matterhorn, before his 90th birthday.
[
23
]
1992
August 20:
Hans Kammerlander
and
Diego Wellig
[
de
]
climb the Matterhorn four times in 23 hours and 26 minutes. The route they followed was: Zmutt ridge–summit–Hörnli ridge (descent)–Furggen ridge–summit–Lion ridge (descent)–Lion ridge–summit–Hörnli ridge (descent)–Hörnli ridge–summit–Hörnli Hut (descent).
[
24
]
1994
March 11: Second ascent of the North Face Direct (Bonatti route), and first female ascent, by
Catherine Destivelle
(started on 8th).
[
18
]
[
25
]
1995
August 17:
Bruno Brunod
sprints up and down the Lion ridge from
Breuil
, ascending and descending 2469 vertical meters in 3hrs and 14 minutes.
[
26
]
2007
September 6: Mountain guides Simon Anthamatten and Michael Lerjen, both of Zermatt, ascended and descended the Hörnli ridge in a record retour (combined time of ascent and descent) of 2 hours and 33 minutes (ascent: 1 hour and 40 minutes, descent: 53 minutes).
[
27
]
2009
January 13:
Ueli Steck
climbs the classic Schmid route on the north face in 1 hour and 56 minutes.
[
28
]
June: Swiss mountain guide
Jean Troillet
climbs a 600 meters new route on the north face.
[
29
]
2011
August 23:
Andreas Steindl
runs 2915 vertical meters from Zollhaus,
Zermatt
, up the Matterhorn over the Hörnli ridge in a record time of 2 hours and 57 minutes.
[
30
]
2013
August 21:
Kilian Jornet
sprints up and down the shortest ridge of the Matterhorn in 2 hours and 52 minute, breaking Brunod's Lion ridge run from Breuil by 22 minutes
[
26
]
2015
April 22:
Dani Arnold
climbs the classic Schmid route on the North Face in a one-hour and 46 minutes, 10 minutes faster than Ueli Steck in 2009.
[
31
]
References
^
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
i
j
k
l
m
n
Pierre Staelen: La Conquête du Cervin
Retrieved 2010-01-18
^
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
i
j
k
l
m
n
o
p
q
r
s
t
u
v
w
x
y
z
aa
Edward Whymper,
Scrambles amongst the Alps
(table of attempts and ascents)
^
D.F.O. Dangar & T.S. Blakeney,
'Old' Peter Taugwalder, 1820-88
,
The Alpine Journal
Vol. 50, pp. 26-29
^
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
i
j
k
l
m
n
o
p
q
r
s
Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, du Col Collon au Theodulpass
, 1992,
Swiss Alpine Club
^
a
b
c
d
e
f
The Matterhorn Centenary
,
The Alpine Journal
Vol. 50, pp. 9-14
^
a
b
c
d
Whymper, Edward,
Scrambles amongst the Alps
, Courier Dover Publications, 1996, p. 425
^
a
b
c
d
e
Guido Rey,
The Matterhorn
^
Theodore Roosevelt Personal Diary, 1881
^
Theodore Roosevelt - letter to his sister
^
Chronology of climbs
weltderberge.de. Retrieved 2010-02-03
^
Marian Smoluchowski - alpine climber, polish
deltami.edu.pl. Retrieved 2021-10-09
^
Alpinisme Cervin/Dent Blanche Weisshorn, du Col Collon au Theodulpass
, 2012,
Swiss Alpine Club
^
Uglow, Jennifer, ed. (1991).
Macmillan Dictionary of Women's Biography
. Springer. p. 552.
ISBN
9781349127047
.
^
Paul Petzoldt Is Dead at 91; Innovator in Rock Climbing
nytimes.com, 9 October 1999
^
a
b
Robin G. Collomb,
Pennine Alps Central
, London: Alpine Club, 1975, pp. 241–59
^
Bells ring out for king of mountains
lynnnews.co.uk, 28 March 2006
^
Matterhorn
in
German
,
French
and
Italian
in the online
Historical Dictionary of Switzerland
.
^
a
b
Herve Barmasse and Luca Maspes, July 2006, "The Matterhorn",
Alpinist
, 16
^
Birkett, Bill; Peascod, Bill (1990).
Women Climbing: 200 Years of Achievement
.
The Mountaineers
.
^
Sampiero, Josh.
"Dani Arnold's speed ascent of the Matterhorn North Face beats Ueli Steck for a new world record"
.
www.redbull.com
. Retrieved
24 November
2015
.
^
remains of 2 climbers identified
^
"Historia polskiego wspinania. Alpy cz. II (po II wojnie światowej)"
(in Polish)
. Retrieved
2023-03-10
.
^
Ulrich Inderbinen
telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 2010-01-27
^
La Stampa 08-21-1992, p. 12
^
The finest alpinists in the world
summitpost.org. Retrieved 2010-01-27
^
a
b
Kilian Jornet Shatters Matterhorn Speed Record
^
Record retour on the Matterhorn's Hörnli ridge
, alpinist.com, 20 September 2007
^
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
, planetmountain.com, 23 January 2009
^
Jean Troillet climbs a 600 meters new route on Matterhorn north face
Archived
2009-08-10 at the
Wayback Machine
up-climbing.org. Retrieved 2010-01-19
^
Swiss Guide Climbs Matterhorn in Sub-3 Hour Sprint
^
Dani Arnold Breaks Matterhorn Speed Record
, Climbing, 30 April 2015
Helmut Dumler and Willi P. Burkhardt,
The High Mountains of the Alps
, London: Diadem, 1994
This information is adapted from Wikipedia which is publicly available.
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