Thomas Huber

For other people with the same name, see Thomas Huber (disambiguation).

Thomas Huber
Personal information
Born (1966-11-18) 18 November 1966 (age 58)
Palling, Bavaria, West Germany
RelativeAlexander Huber (brother)
Websitewww.huberbuam.de
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
Updated on 15 December 2022

Thomas Huber (born 18 November 1966) is a German rock climber (and especially big wall climbing) and mountaineer (and especially alpine climbing). He lives in Berchtesgaden with his family. His brother and regular climbing partner is Alexander Huber, and the two are called "Huberbuam" (Huberboys) in the Bavarian dialect;[1] they were the subject of the 2007 film To the Limit. In 2001, Huber won the 10th Piolet d'Or award with Iwan Wolf for their ascent of the direct north pillar of Shivling.

Early life and education

Thomas Huber was born 18 November 1966, in Palling, Bavaria as the first child of Thomas and Maria Huber.[2]

His father was a climber known for early speed ascents of now classic climbs.[citation needed] He took him and his brother Alexander Huber, into the mountains. He has been climbing since he was 10 years old. In early April 1980, at 13 years of age, his father took them to climb their first 4000m peak, the Allalinhorn.[2] In 1982, he climbed the Rebitsch Crack 5.10/A0 on the Fleischbankpfeiler in the Wilder Kaiser with the youth climbing team.[2]

In 1983, he and his brother spent their first climbing vacation without their father.[2] They started at the little village of Ellmau, and spent a week at the Gaudeamushütte in the Wilder Kaiser to pursue routes on the east face of Karlspitze or the Bauernpredigtstuhl.[2] Towards the end of the holidays, they went for their first ascent, starting out at the Reiter Alpe for the Wagendrischelhorn south face. Their route was named Rauhnachtstanz, 5.10.[2]

Career

Since 1992 Huber has been a state-certified mountain and skiing guide. He is most famous for climbing big walls in the Himalaya.[3]

In 1997, Huber, his brother Alexander, Toni Gutsch, and Conrad Anker went to climb Pakistan's Latok II, in his first trip to the Karakoram. At the time, Huber felt he was still inexperienced, but credits his strong team and good weather for the successful ascent, which encouraged him to become a professional mountaineer.[1]

On 31 May 2000, Huber and Swiss climber Iwan Wolf climbed Shiva's Line, a 1500m route of the North Pillar of Shivling, considered one of the most challenging routes in the Himalayas, with an overhang graded at A4/VII. For the accomplishment, the pair were awarded the 2001 Piolet d'Or.[4]

The 2007 documentary To the Limit shows him and his brother speed climbing.[5][6]

In 2014, Huber and his brother committed to climbing Latok I's north face, one of the last unclimbed problems in the Himalayas.[7] He would commit the next decade to climbing Latok over the course of several expeditions. The next year he returned for another unsuccessful attempt, where he and his brother were nearly scraped from the mountain by an avalanche. Huber described the experience as follows: “It is clear to me that the north face of Latok I is so incalculably dangerous that I feel no more motivation to tackle it. I’m looking for other difficult goals without this incalculable risk.”[8]

In July 2016, Huber had a sixteen-meter free fall while being filmed at a wall on the Brendlberg in the vicinity of Berchtesgaden and suffered a skull fracture.[9]

In August 2016 he recovered enough to go on the next expedition, once again to Latok I.[10][11] The attempt was unsuccessful. In 2019, he once again attempted the north face of Latok I, but was unsuccessful,[12] but returned for another attempt in 2024.[13]

Personal life

Huber lives in Berchtesgaden with his wife and three children. In 2011, he was diagnosed with a kidney tumor, which was removed and turned out to be benign. For two months afterwards he felt weakened.[14]

Notable achievements

Publications

  • Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber: The Wall. BLV, 2000, ISBN 3-405-15685-8
  • Thomas Huber: Ogre - Gipfel der Träume, BLV, 2002, ISBN 3-405-16374-9

References

  1. ^ a b "ThomasHuber - In Another World - A Personal Climbing Journey". COMMON CLIMBER. Retrieved 23 July 2024.
  2. ^ a b c d e f Our Milestones Thomas and Alexander Huber. retrieved 20 November 2017
  3. ^ "Thomas Huber". Mammut/Gore-Tex European Outdoor Film Tour. Retrieved 28 May 2015.
  4. ^ "Piolet d'Or awarded to Thomas Huber and Iwan Wolf". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 23 July 2024.
  5. ^ "Thomas Huber Filmography". Fandango. Retrieved 15 December 2012.
  6. ^ Keogh, Tom (22 August 2008). ""To the Limit": Extreme climbing — and sibling rivalry". The Seattle Times.
  7. ^ Nestler, Stephen (2 April 2014). "Huber brothers try to climb Latok I North Face". Deutsche Welle. Retrieved 23 July 2024.
  8. ^ Magazine, Gripped (13 November 2015). "The Huber Brothers and Their Latok 1 Dreams". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 23 July 2024.
  9. ^ "Thomas Huber: "Danke, dass ich leben darf!" – Interview". Abenteuer Sport. DW.com. 19 July 2016.
  10. ^ "Thomas Huber: "Ich fahre mit lachendem Herzen"". Abenteuer Sport. DW.com. 13 August 2016.
  11. ^ "Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 23 July 2024.
  12. ^ Routen, Ash (21 June 2019). ""Goodbye, Life": Huber Returns to Latok's Legendary North Ridge » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 23 July 2024.
  13. ^ Benavides, Angela (17 July 2024). "Thomas Huber Back to Latok I » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 23 July 2024.
  14. ^ So gewann ich den Kampf gegen den Nierentumor, tz, 21 July 2011, retrieved 20 November 2017.
  15. ^ a b c d e f g h Thomas Huber Biography www.bergfieber.de, n.d. (In German)
  16. ^ a b "Endstation Eiszeit". huberbuam.de. Archived from the original on 3 August 2013.
  17. ^ a b Interview: Bei minus 46 Grad in der Wand, Alexander und Thomas Huber, Ostfriesische Nachrichten, 24 January 2009, p 28.
  18. ^ Extremklettern – Die „Huberbuam“ in der Antarktis Spiegel Online Video, 19 March 2009.

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