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Ström Paris

Ström Paris
The Ström boutique at 16 Rue de la Chaussée-d'Antin, Paris (1911)
The Ström boutique at 16 Rue de la Chaussée-d'Antin, Paris (1911)
Original nameStröm Paris
StatusHistorical
IndustryCouture, clothing, sports accessories
Founded1848
FounderOlé Olsen Ström
Active period1848–c. 1920
HeadquartersParis, France

Ström Paris (also known as O. Ström & Fils) was a French tailoring house active in Paris from 1848 through the early 20th century. The firm specialized in bespoke garments for men and women, with a focus on luxury sportswear for motoring, aviation, and outdoor sports.[1]

History

A listing of honors and medals awarded to the house at international exhibitions between 1900 and 1906.

Established in 1848 by Norwegian-born Olé Olsen Ström (1827–1904), the house initially focused on high society tailoring in Paris.[2] By the late 19th century, the business operated as O. Ström & Fils and held royal warrants for the monarchs of Sweden, Norway, and Belgium.[2] The house maintained salons at 16, Rue de la Chaussée-d’Antin and later moved to the Rue Royale.[3]

In 1893, Ström's sons, Gustave Adolphe and Charles Alfred, joined the business. The Ström family was deeply integrated into the early European motorsport circuit; Gustave Ström married the sister of the racing driver Alfred Velghe (known as "Levegh").[3] The House won numerous awards in international exhibitions, including a Silver Medal at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris and a Gold Medal at the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis.[4] To document their collections, the House collaborated with notable artists; artists Georges de Feure and Nils Forsberg Junior were commissioned to design sales catalogues, and the illustrator O'Galop produced illustrations featuring Charles Ström wearing Ström patented inventions.

Sporting attire and patents

Ström was an early inventor of specialized clothing for motorists and aviators, supplying the Automobile Club de France, the Paris Yacht Club, and the Aéro-Club de France.[5] To address the conditions of open-top travel, the firm filed several patents with the National Institute of Industrial Property (INPI):

  • Couverture-pantalon (blanket-trousers, 1899): A wool or fur covering designed to be used as a blanket that could be fastened around the legs for protection while driving.[6]
  • Parapluie du chauffeur (Chauffeur's umbrella, 1901): A waterproof garment with an elastic rubber collar intended to prevent water ingress at the neck.[7]

Beyond apparel, the house produced safety equipment, such as the "Life-jacket pillow-belt" (Oreiller-Ceinture de Sauvetage), a patented invention with an air chamber, bird-down and a safety valve, designed for use by sailors and early motorists.

The firm's garments were used by prominent racing drivers including Léon Théry, Camille Jenatzy, Louis Wagner, Alfred Velghe, René de Knyff, and Joe Tracy, as well as early aviators such as Louis Blériot and Henri Farman, and explorer Jean-Baptiste Charcot during French Antarctic expeditions.[8] Tracy's personal silk racing mask and goggles, used circa 1905, are preserved in the collections of The Henry Ford.[9][10]

Collections and legacy

The firm's historical output and primary documentation are preserved in several international public collections:

  • Léon Théry wearing a Ström motoring coat after his 1904 Gordon Bennett Cup victory.
    Léon Théry wearing a Ström motoring coat after his 1904 Gordon Bennett Cup victory.
  • Camille Jenatzy wearing the "Parapluie du Chauffeur" at the 1908 French Grand Prix.
    Camille Jenatzy wearing the "Parapluie du Chauffeur" at the 1908 French Grand Prix.
  • Louis Wagner wearing the "Parapluie du Chauffeur" at the 1914 French Grand Prix.
    Louis Wagner wearing the "Parapluie du Chauffeur" at the 1914 French Grand Prix.
  • Lithograph by Harry Eliott (c. 1904) featuring spectators near a "STRÖM MODE" sign.
    Lithograph by Harry Eliott (c. 1904) featuring spectators near a "STRÖM MODE" sign.
  • Wolf fur motoring coat crafted by G. A. Ström (1903).
    Wolf fur motoring coat crafted by G. A. Ström (1903).
  • 1904 advertisement for the "Parapluie du Chauffeur".
    1904 advertisement for the "Parapluie du Chauffeur".
  • 1905 advertisement for the "Life-jacket pillow-belt".
    1905 advertisement for the "Life-jacket pillow-belt".
  • 1910s sales catalogue cover featuring an illustration by George de Feure.
    1910s sales catalogue cover featuring an illustration by George de Feure.
  • 1905 invoice for O. Ström & Fils listing royal warrants.
    1905 invoice for O. Ström & Fils listing royal warrants.

References

  1. ^ Holderbaum, Béatrice (2021). "« Le smoking de madame »: mode et genre dans la France des années 1920–1930". Revue d'histoire culturelle (in French) (3).
  2. ^ a b Smart (27 August 1899). "Le Tailleur Sportif". La Vie au Grand Air (in French): 27.
  3. ^ a b Costa, Jean (18 October 1911). "Les grands tailleurs de chez nous : Maison Ström". L'Écho de Paris (in French). p. 6.
  4. ^ Bentayou (1900). Le Tailleur-coupeur de Paris : revue d'enseignement professionnel, no. 57 (in French). BNF Gallica. p. 4.
  5. ^ "L'Auto-vélo". L'Auto-vélo (in French). 1 January 1903.
  6. ^ "Brevet d'invention n° 288.235 : Couverture-pantalon". INPI (in French). 1899.
  7. ^ "Brevet d'invention n° 310.651 : Vêtement dit Parapluie-Ström". INPI (in French). 1901.
  8. ^ Charley (21 September 1903). "Au pays des fourrures". Le Monde Sportif (in French): 7.
  9. ^ a b "Automobile Racing Face Mask, circa 1905, Owned by Joe Tracy". The Henry Ford.
  10. ^ a b "Automobile Racing Goggles, Used by Joe Tracy, circa 1905". The Henry Ford.
  11. ^ "Hat, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection". The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  12. ^ "Waistcoat, early 20th century". The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  13. ^ "Ström : [catalogue commercial]". Bibliothèques spécialisées de la Ville de Paris (in French).

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