Mission San Francisco Solano is the direct predecessor to the founding of the town of Sonoma. The mission, the only to be constructed not by the Spanish but by the later Mexican authorities seeking independence and succeeding to the Royal Spanish Viceroyalty at that time, was built as part of a larger plan Governor Luis Antonio Argüello had devised to fortify the Spanish presence north of the San Francisco Bay and thus deter Russian Empire (Russia) encroachment southward from further north in Russian America (where they'd established a presence back in the 1740s, a half-century before) into the Pacific Ocean coastal region.[16]Franciscan padre / priest José Altimira worked with Governor Argüello to plan the mission, against the desires of José Francisco de Paula Señan, then the President-General of the Spanish missions in California, who disapproved of secular government intervention into religious matters.
A decade later in 1833 the Congress of the Union (Mexican Congress) passed the Mexican secularization act of 1833, ending Roman Catholic Church mission stewardship and control of huge tracts of associated lands in California, one goal being to diminish the church's highly influential standing in California's economy and political system.[17] Then Governor José Figueroa appointed Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, then the Commandant of the Presidio of San Francisco, as administrator (comisionado) to oversee the closing of Mission San Francisco Solano and its conversion into a civilian town.[18]
General Mariano G. Vallejo reviewing his Mexican Army troops in Sonoma Plaza, 1846. The building with a tower is General Vallejo's residence, the Casa Grande, and to the right are the Sonoma Barracks.
Governor Figueroa had received instructions from the Mexican Congress further south in the capital city of Mexico City to establish a strong presence in the region north of the San Francisco Bay to protect the area from encroachments of foreigners.[19] An immediate concern was the further south and eastward movement to the interior of the Russian America Company from their settlements at Fort Ross and Bodega Bay on the Northern California coastline.[20]
Figueroa's next step in implementing his instructions was to name Lieutenant Vallejo as Military Commander of the Northern Frontier and to order the Army units of officers / soldiers, arms and materiel supplies at the Presidio of San Francisco moved to the site of the recently secularized Mission San Francisco Solano. The Sonoma Barracks were then built to house the troops. Until the building was habitable, the soldiers were housed in the buildings of the old Mission.[21] In 1834, George C. Yount, the first European American permanent settler in the Napa Valley, north of San Francisco Bay, was employed as a carpenter by Mexican Army General Vallejo.
The Governor granted Lieutenant Vallejo the initial lands (approximately 44,000 acres (178 km2)) of Rancho Petaluma immediately west of Sonoma. Vallejo was also named Director of Colonization which meant that he could initiate land grants for other colonists (subject to the approval of the governor) and the diputación (Alta California's nominal assembly / legislature).[22]
Vallejo had also been instructed by Governor Figueroa to establish a pueblo at the site of the old Mission. In 1835, with the assistance of William A. Richardson, he laid out a grid, in accordance with the Spanish Laws of the Indies, of the streets, building lots, central plaza and broad main avenue of the newly planned Pueblo de Sonoma.[23]
Although Sonoma had been founded as a pueblo in 1835, it still remained under military control, lacking the political structures of civilian municipal self-government of other Alta California pueblos. In 1843, now Lieutenant Colonel Vallejo wrote to the Governor recommending that a civil government be organized for Sonoma. A town council (ayuntamiento) was established in 1844 and Jacobo Leese was named first alcalde, and Cayetano Juárez second alcalde.[24]
Before dawn on Sunday, June 14, 1846, thirty-three Americans, already in rebellion against the Alta California provincial government of Mexico, arrived in Sonoma. Some of the group had traveled from the camp of United States Army Brevet Captain John C. Frémont (1813-1890), who had entered California illegally from across the Great Plains and through the Rocky Mountains chain from the east in late 1845 with his exploration and mapping expedition. Others had joined along the way. As the number of immigrants arriving in California had swelled, the Mexican government barred them from buying or renting land and threatened them with expulsion because they had entered without official permission.[25][26] Mexican officials were concerned about the coming Mexican–American War of 1846-1848, with the United States coupled with the growing influx of American and other European immigrants into California, both by overland wagon trains from the east and by ship on the West Coast and Pacific Ocean.[27]
A group of rebellious Americans had departed from Captain Frémont's military camp on June 10 and captured a herd of 170 Mexican government-owned horses being moved by Californio / Mexican Army soldiers from San Rafael and Sonoma to Alta California's Commandante General José Castro in Santa Clara.[29] The insurgents next determined to seize the weapons, gunpowder and materiel stored in the Sonoma Barracks and to deny Sonoma to the Californios as a rallying point north of the San Francisco Bay.[30]
Meeting no resistance, they approached the home of General Vallejo, who invited the filibusters' leaders into his home to negotiate terms. However, when the agreement was presented to those outside they refused to endorse and accept it. Rather than releasing the Mexican officers under parole, they insisted they be held as hostages. William Ide (1796-1852), gave an impassioned speech urging the rebels to stay in Sonoma and start a new republic.[31] Afterwards, Vallejo and his three associates were taken as prisoners and placed on horseback and taken to Captain Frémont.[32]
The Sonoma Barracks became the headquarters for the remaining twenty-four rebels, who within a few days created their Bear Flag. After the flag was raised Californios called the insurgents Los Osos (The Bears) because of their flag and in derision of their often scruffy appearance. The rebels embraced the expression, and their uprising became known as the Bear Flag Revolt.[33] There were some small unit skirmishes between the Bears and the Californios but no major confrontations.
After hearing reports that General José Castro was preparing to attack Sonoma, Frémont left Sutter's Fort with his forces for Sonoma. There he called a meeting with "the Bears" and united his forces with the revolters to form a single military unit. Frémont then took the majority of the men back to Sutter's Fort and left fifty men to defend Sonoma. The Bear Flag Revolt ended and the California Republic ceased to exist on July 9 when Lieutenant Joseph Warren Revere of the U.S. Navy raised the United States flag in front of the Sonoma Barracks.[34]
Following the American Conquest of California and the advent of the California Gold Rush, local businesses prospered with the business brought by the soldiers as well as miners traveling to and from the gold fields. The prosperity and optimism about Sonoma's future promoted land speculation which was particularly problematic because of the cloudy records regarding land ownership.
Vallejo had granted land by virtue of his office as Director of Colonization before the pueblo was organized. Among the traditional duties of Alta California's alcaldes was the selling of town lots. Political factions backed different Sonoma alcaldes (John H. Nash, supported by American immigrants, and Lilburn Boggs (1796-1860), supported by Vallejo and the Californios) made the situation more complex.[35] Some property was sold more than once.[36] A valid land sale depended on proof of the seller's chain of title. Over thirty subsequent years of lawsuits and land disputes were required before land owners in Sonoma were able to obtain clear titles.[37]
When the California interim government and U.S. military occupation beginning 1846, finally ended after four years in 1850, when California was admitted as the 31st state to the federal Union by act of the U.S. Congress]], approved by the President, on September 9, 1850, Sonoma was then named the first county seat town for Sonoma County. About that time the flow of miners had slowed and the U.S. Army was soon leaving Sonoma. Business in Sonoma moved into an economic recession in 1851.[38] Surrounding towns such as Petaluma and Santa Rosa were developing and gaining population much faster than Sonoma. An 1854 special election then moved the county seat and courthouse and its legal work and entailed economic activity to Santa Rosa.
Contemporary era
The Sonoma City Hall, located in the center of the Sonoma Plaza, was dedicated on September 9, 1908.[39]
The principal watercourse in the town is Sonoma Creek, which flows in a southerly direction to discharge ultimately to the Napa Sonoma Marsh; Arroyo Seco Creek is a tributary to Schell Creek with a confluence in the eastern portion of the town.
The active Rodgers Fault lies to the west of Sonoma Creek; however, the risk of major damage is mitigated by the fact that most of the soils beneath the city consist of a slight alluvial terrace underlain by strongly cemented sedimentary and volcanic rock.[42] To the immediate south, west and east are deeper rich, alluvial soils that support valuable agricultural cultivation. The mountain block to the north rises to 1,200 feet (370 m) and provides an important scenic backdrop.
Climate
Sonoma has a typical lowland near-coastal Californian warm-summer mediterranean climate (Köppen climate classificationCsb) with hot, dry summers (although nights are comfortably cool) and cool, wet winters. In January, the normal high is 57.2 °F (14.0 °C) and the typical low is 37.2 °F (2.9 °C). In July, the normal high is 88.6 °F (31.4 °C) and the normal low is 51.2 °F (10.7 °C). There are an average of 58.1 days with highs of 90 °F (32 °C) or higher and 12.1 days with highs of 100 °F (38 °C). The highest temperature on record was 116 °F (47 °C) on July 13, 1972, and the lowest temperature was 13 °F (−11 °C) on December 22, 1990. Normal annual precipitation is 29.43 inches (748 mm). The wettest month on record was 20.29 inches (515 mm) in January 1995. The greatest 24-hour rainfall was 6.75 inches (171 mm) on January 4, 1982. There are an average of 68.6 days with measurable precipitation. Snow has rarely fallen, but 1 inch (2.5 cm) fell in January 1907; more recently, snow flurries were observed on February 5, 1976, and in the winter of 2001.[43]
Climate data for Sonoma, California, 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1893–present
Within the Sonoma Valley, the racial makeup was 46.3% White, 49.1% Hispanic, and 2.7% Native American. The average household income was $96,722. The Census reported that 10,411 people (97.8% of the population) lived in households, 11 (0.1%) lived in non-institutionalized group quarters, and 226 (2.1%) were institutionalized.
There were 4,955 households, out of which 1,135 (22.9%) had children under the age of 18 living in them, 2,094 (42.3%) were married couples living together, 425 (8.6%) had a female householder with no husband present, 174 (3.5%) had a male householder with no wife present. There were 230 (4.6%) unmarried partnerships, and 48 (1.0%) same-sex married couples or partnerships. 1,920 households (38.7%) were made up of individuals, and 1,054 (21.3%) had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.10. There were 2,693 families (54.3% of all households); the average family size was 2.82.
The population was spread out, with 1,920 people (18.0%) under the age of 18, 559 people (5.2%) aged 18 to 24, 2,252 people (21.1%) aged 25 to 44, 3,250 people (30.5%) aged 45 to 64, and 2,667 people (25.0%) who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 49.2 years. For every 100 females, there were 83.6 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 78.8 males.
There were 5,544 housing units at an average density of 2,021.9 units per square mile (780.7 units/km2), of which 2,928 (59.1%) were owner-occupied, and 2,027 (40.9%) were occupied by renters. The homeowner vacancy rate was 2.6%; the rental vacancy rate was 7.0%. 6,294 people (59.1% of the population) lived in owner-occupied housing units and 4,117 people (38.7%) lived in rental housing units.
2000
International vendors at Valley of the Moon Farmer's Market
At the previous census[12] of 2000, there were 9,128 people, 4,373 households, and 2,361 families residing in the city. The population density was 3,442 people per square mile (1,329 people/km2). There were 4,671 housing units at an average density of 1,762 units per square mile (680 units/km2). The racial makeup of the city was 93.80% White, 0.36% African American, 0.34% Native American, 1.70% Asian, 0.05% Pacific Islander, 1.61% from other races, and 2.14% from two or more races. 6.85% of the population were Hispanics (of any race).
There were 4,373 households, of which 21.1% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 42.5% were married couples living together, 8.5% had a female householder with no husband present, and 46.0% were non-families. 39.2% of households consisted of individuals, and 21.5% had someone living alone who was 65 or older. The average household size was 2.07 and the average family size was 2.77. The age distribution was as follows: 18.6% under the age of 18, 4.8% from 18 to 24, 23.5% from 25 to 44, 28.9% from 45 to 64, and 24.2% who had achieved age 65. The median age was 47 years. For every 100 females, there were 81.5 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 77.0 males.
The median income for a household in the city was $50,505, and the median income for a family was $65,600. Males had a median income of $51,831 versus $40,276 for females. The per capita income for the city was $32,387. 3.7% of the population and 2.0% of families were below the poverty line. 3.3% of those under 18 and 4.7% of those were 65 and older.
The City of Sonoma was incorporated on September 3, 1883.[3] It uses a council–manager form of government, wherein a council sets policy and hires staff to implement it. The city council has five members, elected to four-year terms.[4] The city council selects one of its members to serve as mayor.
In addition to the official mayor, Sonoma has a tradition of naming an honorary mayor each year, titled "Alcalde/Alcaldesa".[48] The Alcalde or Alcaldesa presides over ceremonial events for the city.
The two primary news sources for Sonoma are the Sonoma Index-Tribune and the Sonoma Valley Sun. The Sonoma Index-Tribune publishes twice weekly on Wednesdays and Fridays and has a circulation of 9,000. The Sonoma Valley Sun publishes every other Thursday and is free. The Sun is recognized as the alternative weekly for the Sonoma Valley. It has a circulation of 5,000. Sonoma has a local radio station, KSVY, and a public-access television station, SVTV 27.
Infrastructure
Transportation
California State Route 12 is the main route in Sonoma, passing through the populated areas of the Sonoma Valley and connecting it to Santa Rosa to the north and Napa to the east. State routes 121 and 116 run to the south of town, passing through the unincorporated area of Schellville and connecting Sonoma Valley to Napa, Petaluma to the west, and Marin County to the south. Sonoma County Transit provides bus service from Sonoma to other points in the county. VINE Transit also operates a route between Napa and Sonoma.
Smilie, Robert A. (1975). The Sonoma Mission, San Francisco Solano de Sonoma: The Founding, Ruin and Restoration of California's 21st Mission. Valley Publishers, Fresno, CA. ISBN978-0-913548-24-0.
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