Mountain in the Karakoram
Muchu Chhish (7,453 metres (24,452 ft)) is a mountain in the Batura Muztagh sub-range of the Karakoram in Hunza Valley, in northern areas of Pakistan.[1] Located in a very remote and inaccessible region, only a handful of attempts have been made to reach the summit. Muchu Chhish was one of the tallest unclimbed mountains on Earth,[2] until its successful summit in 2024.[3] The peak has a modest prominence however, rising only 263 m (863 ft) above the nearest col or pass.[1] The Batura Glacier, one of the longest outside the polar regions, flanks Muchu Chhish to the north.
Muchu Chhish lacks any well-defined northern or southern ridges of its own and is nearly impassable from the north due to glacial icefall; most expeditions thus attempt it via the South Ridge of 7,462 m (24,482 ft) Batura VI to the immediate west. This ridge was climbed by a Polish expedition in 1983 using fixed ropes while making the first ascent of 7,531 m (24,708 ft) Batura V and VI.[4] One attempt was by a Spanish expedition in 1999, which reached 6,650 m (21,820 ft) on the south ridge.[5] In 2020, a three-member Czech expedition, including climber Pavel Kořínek and former politician Pavel Bém, made an attempt, but they did not reach the top due to bad weather.[6] The same climbers tried again in 2021, but that attempt failed due to excessive amounts of snow on the ridge.[7][8]
First ascent
A Czech team consisting of Zdenek Hak, Radoslav Groh, and Jaroslav Bansky reached the summit of Muchu Chhish on July 5, 2024 after a six day climb.[3] At the time of the summit, it was the highest unclimbed peak in the Karakoram.
See also
References
