Matsumaezuke

Matsumaezuke

Matsumaezuke (松前漬け) is a pickled dish of dried squid and kelp, native to Hokkaidō, Japan, named in reference to the Matsumae clan which once governed the region, then known as Ezo.

It is made from dried and preserved seafood products from Hokkaidō. Surume (dried squid) and konbu are cut into thin strips with scissors, Kazunoko (herring roe) are broken up into small bits, with other ingredients added depending on recipe. The ingredients are cured in sweet soy sauce, or marinade of sake, soy sauce and mirin, for several days.

History

There are conflicting claims as to the evolution of the dish.

According to the publication from the ex-MITI governmental research body Tsūsan kikaku chōsakai [ja] (1987), matsumaezuke developed naturally within the Matsumae domain in Ezo (Ainu country), among the immigrating wajin populace (non-native mainland Japanese), using dried squid (surume) and kombu kelp, which were the locally abundant trade commodities. It can probably be dated to around the Kansei era (1789-1801),[a] when kitamae ships began to bring readily available supplies of soy sauce, etc., into the area.[1] The name "Matsumae zuke" did not originate then, and the dish was simply called kobuika (こぶいか, 'kelp-squid') or ika no shōyu zuke (いかの醤油漬, 'squid-soy sauce-pickle'). The "Matsumaezuke" nickname was coined in the Shōwa era, and though originally a squid and kelp only preserve, a type adding kazunoko (herring roe) began to circulate around Showa 3 (1929).[1]

The same government research body in earlier published books provided a different account, stating that the matsumaezuke, "as a chinmi whose recipe was held as secret 'not to leave its gates', was endeared to the successive daimyo lords of the Matsumae feudal clan".[2][3]

Alternately, Yamagata-ya of Hakodate which lays claim to ganso (元祖, 'the original') matsumae zuke explains that this was something "made at home in the southern Hokkaido region, as a salted pickle overnight", but the company founder changed it to a soy sauce pickling recipe and marketed as a product in Showa 13 (1938).[4] The item would eventually gain name recognition nationwide.

In the 1950s, Japan's herring fisheries collapsed, and with the scarcity, and by the mid 1960s and thereafter, kazunoko became more of an "expensive delicacy" item nicknamed "yellow diamond",[5][6] though it continues to be used.

As for the naming, it has been observed that the Hokkaido produce which is ma-kombu (sweet kelp) went by the nickname Matsumae kombu (松前昆布)[7] (or simply Matsumae (まつまえ)[8]) and consequently this and other dishes which used kelp often had "Matsumae~" prefixed upon its name (e.g. Matsumaezushi, Matumaeni, Matsumaemushi, Matsumaemaki).[8]

Recipe

A soy sauce on the sweet-side,[8] or a marinade blending soy sauce with (sweet) mirin are said to be used.[9]

Nowadays, there a Matsumae zuke sets or kits (precut squid and kelp) available[10] for easy preparation, but to create from scratch, below is a home-cooking recipe published in newspaper:[11]

  • The kazunoko must be soaked in dilute saltwater beforehand, overnight.
  • The dried squid and kombu should be cleaned by sponging off any debris using wet cloth (paper towel dampened with sake), then cut into fine ribbons using kitchen scissors. The kazunoko are broken up into bits before adding. If carrots are used they should be julienned.
  • Moisten and soften the cut squid, and blend with other ingredients in a marinade made from sake, soy sauce, and mirin heated to boil and cooled off.
  • Keep refrigerated, stirring several times per day. Ready to serve after about 3 days.

Although use of carrots[11] is not universal, some dictionary references list carrot or[12] or daikon radish. {{Refn|Okuyma lists"kelp, dried squid, daikon, kazunoko, yuzu peel" as an ingredient.[9] A tai (sea bream, in sashimi form) is sometimes blended.[8]。

In addition to the flavor and texture, the kombu adds a slimy viscosity considered desirable and healthy, and though traditionally high quality ma-kombu is to be used[2] a suggested trending alternative is to admix a more mucusy species of kelp known as gagome [ja].[b][11]

See also

  • chinmi – Japanese term referring to rare food delicacies
  • ikaninjin [ja] - Squid and carrots. Alternative claim is that this was the original recipe which later became matsumaezuke
  • Namasu (Food) - kōhaku namasu (紅白なます), a carrots and daikon osechi

Explanatory notes

  1. ^ Corrected from the publication which states Kansei (寛永), since that falls within 1624–1644, and is prior to Matsumae-shi (clan) becoming a han (feudal clan) in 1719 (Kyoho era), and for other reasons.
  2. ^ This is also sold precut as kizami kombu (gagome type),[13] or under such trade names as natto kombu.[14]

References

Citations
  1. ^ a b Tsūsan (MITI) Kikaku chōsakai, ed. (1987). Nihon no chiiki sangyō : tokusanhin hen 日本の地域産業: 特産品編. ((Ministry of Trade and Industry, MITI, Kikaku chōsakai)). p. 10.
  2. ^ a b Nihon dentō sangyō kenkyūjo, ed. (1987). Nihon no dentō sangyō 日本の伝統産業. Vol. 2. ((Ministry of Trade and Industry, MITI, Kikaku chōsakai)). p. 31.
  3. ^ Tsūsan (MITI) Kikaku chōsakai, ed. (1984). Zenkoku no bussan to sangyō 全国の物産と産業. ((Ministry of Trade and Industry, MITI, Kikaku chōsakai)). p. 25.
  4. ^ In: Buka Kikaku, Ltd., "Prizes announced for the Bessatsu bunshun magazine" Bessatsu bunshun kakari happyō shōhin 別冊文春係発表賞品, PR section. "松前漬"+"醤油" "(Kabu[shikikaisha]) Yamagata-ya 'Ganso Matsumaezuke' <Hakodate shi>" (株)山形屋「元祖・松前漬」<函館市>. Bessatsu Bungei shunjū 別冊文藝春秋 (147). 1979.
  5. ^ Mackovjak, James (2022). "Chapter 9. Genesis and Management of Alaska's Ro-Herring Fishery". Alaska Herring History: The Story of Alaska's Herring Fisheries and Industry. University of Alaska Press. pp. 143–144. ISBN 9781646423439.
  6. ^ NIRA (1990). 食文化と地域社会. National Institute for Research Advancement. p. 490. ISBN 9781646423439. (in Japanese)
  7. ^ Okuyama (1984) s.v. "Kombu コンブ", p. 171
  8. ^ a b c d Yoshida, Kanehiko [in Japanese], ed. (1996). "Matsumaezuki" まつまえづけ 松前漬. Ishokjū gogen jiten 衣食住語源辞典. Tokyodo shuppan. p. 300. ISBN 9784490104349.
  9. ^ a b Okuyama (1984) s.v. "Matsumaezuke 松前漬", p. 378
  10. ^ Kakita, Tatsuya (2018). "Table 25: Genryō gensanchi hyōji no kunibetsu jūryō jun'i taishō shōhin ichiran" 図表25 原料原産地表示の国別重量順位対象商品と対象外商品一覧. Omoshiroi hodo yoku wakaru 'shokuhin hyōji' 面白いほどよくわかる「食品表示」 [List of ingredients requiring place-of-origin labeling in order of %mass and ingredients exempt] (revised ed.). Discovery Twenty-one.
  11. ^ a b c Hayami, Hiroki (2014-12-30). "Nebaneba ga kenkō no kagi: kazunoko tappuri no matsumaezuke" ネバネバが健康の鍵　数の子たっぷりの松前漬け [Sliminess is key to health: Matsumezuke with lots of kazunoko]. Sankei Shimbun: 41–46.
  12. ^ Shinmura, Izuru, ed. (1998). "Matsumaezuke" まつまえづけ【松前漬】. 広辞苑 (5 ed.). 岩波書店. p. 2518. ISBN 9784000801119.
  13. ^ Fujii, Megumi [in Japanese] (2021). "Daizugōri wo tsukatta kizami kombu to hoshi shiitake no nimono" 大豆氷を使った刻み昆布と干ししいたけの煮物 [Stewed kombu slices and dried shiitake using frozen soy purée]. Fujii Megumi no mainichi daizu 藤井恵の毎日大豆. Shufunotomo. p. 34. ISBN 9784074481439.
  14. ^ Ushio, Rie (2023). "Nebaneba ae" ねばなばあえ. Sapuri mitai ni eiyō ga toreru fukusai 101 サプリみたいに栄養がとれる副菜101. Shufu To Seikatsu Sha. p. 29. ISBN 9784391160963.
Bibliography