Léa Bidaut

Léa Bidaut
Born(1908-05-17)17 May 1908
Le Creusot, Saône-et-Loire, France
Died30 May 1996(1996-05-30) (aged 88)
Pierre-Bénite, Lyon, France
Culinary career
Cooking styleLyonnaise cuisine
Current restaurant(s)
  • La Voûte chez Léa

Léa Bidaut (17 May 1908 – 30 May 1996), known as Mère Léa, was a French cook and Lyon Mère.[1][2] A well-known representative of the Lyonnaise cuisine, she began her career in 1927 working during her teens for wealthy people in her hometown such as the industrial Schneider family before moving to Lyon. From 1938, Bidaut ran her first restaurant, later known as "Daniel et Denise",[3] in the Rue Tupine, Place Bellecour, Lyon, for four years. She opened her restaurant "La Voûte chez Léa" nearby in 1943; it received a star in the Michelin Guide.[4][5]

She was known for walking round the stalls of the Saint-Antoine market on the quay next to her restaurant, pushing her cart emblazoned with a sign "Attention, faible femme mais forte gueule" (Attention, weak woman, but big mouth).[5] She ended her tours of the market without spending hardly any money, and she did wonders with very little, especially her asparagus tips.[6]

She joined the Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises in 1978.[7] The restaurant was taken over in January 1980 by chef Philippe Rabatel and she retired in 1981.[8] The restaurant was sold in 2013 to partners Christian Morel, Michelin-starred chef Christian Têtedoie,[9][10] and sommelier Laurence Ginet.[5] As of 2022 the restaurant is still in operation.[5]

Specialties

Bidaut followed the traditions of Lyon's famous female cooks – the Mères lyonnaises – in avoiding over-elaborate dishes, preferring to offer fairly simple food of the highest quality. In addition to her specialty, sauerkraut with champagne, the restaurant was famous for its potato paillasson, chicken in vinegar, the orange-flavoured rabbit leg, and the macaroni gratin, a recipe which she taught Mère Brazier.[5][11]

References

  1. ^ "la Mère Léa". Cuisine des Gones (in French). cuisine-des-gones.com. 2022. Retrieved 21 May 2022.
  2. ^ Relevé généalogique (INSEE death certificate), Geneanet. In French. Retrieved 22 May 2022
  3. ^ "Daniel et Denise Créqui". Michelin Guide. 2022. Retrieved 21 May 2022.
  4. ^ "La Mère Léa". Michelin Guide. 2022. Retrieved 21 May 2022.
  5. ^ a b c d e Faus, Patrick (31 July 2013). "La Voûte – Chez Léa à Lyon (Rhône)". Gourmets & Co. Retrieved 21 May 2022.
  6. ^ Durand, Jacky (17 February 2018). "A la gloire des mères lyonnaises". Radio France (in French). France Culture. Retrieved 21 May 2022.
  7. ^ "Les Mères Lyonnaises". Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises. (in French). Retrieved 21 May 2022.
  8. ^ Borcover, Alfred (31 July 1988). "VISITOR TO LYON NEVER AT LOSS FOR FINE FOOD". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 21 May 2022.
  9. ^ "Têtedoie". Michelin Guide. 2022. Retrieved 21 May 2022.
  10. ^ "La Voûte Chez Léa : une belle cuisine lyonnaise de tradition". LE PROGRÈS (in French). GROUPE PROGRES S.A. 15 November 2014. Retrieved 21 May 2022.
  11. ^ "La Mère Léa : La tradition perdure dans les bouchons". LYON RESTO (in French). Lyonresto. 21 May 2022. Retrieved 21 May 2022.

Further reading

  • Simon, Catherine, (2018) Mangées. Une histoire des Mères lyonnaises, Sabine Wespieser, editor/publisher. ISBN 978-2848052816.

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