L'Officiel (French pronunciation:[lɔfisjɛl]; stylised in all caps), full name L'Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris ("The Paris Official [Magazine] of Couture and Fashion"), is a French monthly fashion magazine. It has been published in Paris since 1921 and targets upper-income, educated women aged from 25 to 49.[3] A men's edition called L'Officiel Hommes is also published,[4] as are many foreign editions of the magazine.[3] In 2022, it was acquired by AMTD, a Hong Kong–based company.[1]
History
L'Officiel was first published in 1921.[4][5] It was the official publication of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, a trade body representing all Paris couturiers,[6]: 83 and took over the role of Les Elégances Parisiennes, a joint publication of a group of about twenty-five couturiers which became defunct in 1922.[7]: 56 When launched in 1921, L'Officiel was originally a professional trade magazine, directed principally at international buyers of high fashion, both corporate and individual, and at those working in the fashion industry.[6]: 83
Georges Jalou joined the magazine as artistic director in 1932.[4] Within a short time, the magazine had helped to start the careers of designers such as Pierre Balmain, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, and Yves St. Laurent, and came to be known as "the Bible of fashion and of high society".[4][8] Jalou became general director of the publication and editor-in-chief, and later purchased the magazine.[4]
In the 1940s French novelist Colette wrote pieces for the magazine.
L'Officiel Hommes was first launched in 1976 as a male alternative to L'Officiel, but in ceased publication in 1991. It was relaunched in 1996, one of its editors was Patrick Besson.[9] In 1998 however it was rebranded to L'Optimum because of a publishing rights dispute. Then in 2005 L'Officiel Hommes was relaunched again and has been in operation since.[10]
Georges Jalou transferred the magazine to his three children in 1986: Laurent Jalou became the president of Éditions Jalou, Marie-José Susskind-Jalou directed its editorial content, and Maxime Jalou was responsible for publication.[4] After the death of Laurent Jalou in 2003, his daughter Marie-José Susskind-Jalou became president of the company, and restructured the content of the magazine to target a younger market than in its early years.[4]
There was controversy in 2011 when Beyoncé was featured on the magazines cover in blackface and tribal makeup.[11] The magazine responded by saying it was done in honour of Fela Kuti and that it was "a return to her African roots".[12]Dodai Stewart said “It’s fun to play with fashion and makeup, and fashion has a history of provocation and pushing boundaries. But when you paint your face darker in order to look more ‘African,’ aren’t you reducing an entire continent, full of different nations, tribes, cultures and histories, into one brown color?” about the shoot.[12] The stylist and creative director of the shoot Jenke Ahmed Tailly said “It [the blackface] was paying homage to African queens.”[13]
For the October issue in 2013 Karl Lagerfeld shot the cover photo and editorial, which featured the cast of Opium a film about the life of Jean Patou.[14]
The cryptocurrency Taste Token was launched in 2018 the venture was headed by Benjamin Eymère L'Officiel CEO and was developed to compensate readers for their time on the website and for brands to figure out what readers like.[15]
Stefano Tonchi became the magazines Chief Creative Officer in January 2020 however he left the magazine in December 2021 after.[16]
In January 2021, a group of freelancers working for the magazine took legal action in France, claiming that they had not been paid.[17][18][19]
For its 100th anniversary in 2021, L'Officiel opened its archive for academic study to students at the Parsons Paris.[20] They also launched L'Officiel House of Dreams a website set up as a virtual museum documenting the magazines history.[21]
At the World Economic Forum in January 2023, the L'Officiel Coffee pop up was launched in Davos, and AMTD announced plans to expand the store to different cities worldwide.[24] The first location will open in late 2024 in Tokyo.[25]
L'Officiel Singapore and L'Officiel Malaysia were relaunched in March 2023, now directly owned and managed and no longer under a franchising ownership model.[26] In August 2023, L'Officiel Philippines was brought under direct ownership also.[27]
Editors
French publications usually have multiple Editors for different areas of the magazine, in the case of L'Officiel they are listed below. However as of 2024 Vanessa Bellugeon is the magazine's only Editor-in-Chief.
The magazine has 27 different international editions. Other titles published by the group include L'Officiel Art (launched in 2012) and L'Officiel Hommes.
Other titles of the magazine that are no longer published include L'Officiel 1000 Modèles (from 1996–2019),[39]L'Officiel Chirugie Esthétique (launched in 1996),[40]L'Officiel Voyage (2005–2019), L'Officiel Business (2007),[33]L'Officiel New Talents (2012),[41]L'Officiel Shopping/L'Officiel Paris Guide (launched in 2012),[42]L'Officiel 1000 Modèles Design, L'Officiel 1000 Modèles Joaillerie, L'Officiel Beauté and L'Officiel Intérieur.[43][44]
The magazines first supplement was launched in the 1920s and was known as L'Industrie Française du Vêtement Féminine.[45]
L'Officiel editions in Brazil, Italy and the Middle East all had original print runs in the 1970s, these editions were closed down but later relaunched.[45]
Currently L'Officiel directly owns and operates ten editions L'Officiel Brasil,[16]时装 L'Officiel China (in co-operation with Fashion Publishing), L'Officiel Hong Kong,[46]L'Officiel Italia,[16]L'Officiel Japan (in collaboration with Asahi Shimbun Publications),[47][25]L'Officiel Malaysia,[26]L'Officiel Paris,[16]L'Officiel Philippines,[27]L'Officiel Singapore[26] and L'Officiel USA.[16] They also own and operate La Revue des Montres in France, Malaysia and Singapore.[48]
时装 L'Officiel China
L'Officiel was the first international magazine to launch in China,[49] launching in 1985 however it ceased publication in 1990.[50][51]
In 1980 时装 (Fashion) was founded and by the mid-1980s had almost reached a circulation of 300,000.[52] From late 2003 the magazine was rebranded to 时装 L'Officiel after an agreement was made with Éditions Jalou with this the magazine became distributed in Mainland China, Hong Kong and Macau.[53][54] As of 2021 L'Officiel China had a circulation of 839,000.[55]
L'Officiel Italia
L'Officiel Italia originally had a short run in the 1970s and again in the 1990s.[56] In 2009 L'Officiel Hommes launched an Italian edition and in September 2012 L'Officiel Italia was relaunched with Carlo Mazzoni as Editor-in-Chief.[57][58]
L'Officiel Japan
In 1973 a version of L'Officiel translated into Japanese was released.[59] However it was not until 2005 that the Japanese edition L'Officiel Japon was launched. It later closed in 2008.[60] In October 2015 L'Officiel Japan was launched with Tetsuya Mabuchi as its Publisher and Naoko Kikuchi as its Editor-in-Chief it was published by Éditions Jalou and Seven & I Publishing.[61][62] The magazine ceased publication in December 2016, but its last issue was January/February 2017.[63]
In early 2020 it was reported that within two years a Japanese edition was aiming to be launched along with editions for Australia, Nigeria and the United Kingdom.[16] The same was confirmed about a Japanese edition in late 2022.[23]
WWD Japan in May 2024 reported that the magazine would relaunch in September with Takafumi Kawasaki as its Editor-in-Chief, he previously worked for L'Uomo Vogue and GQ Japan.[25] The magazine relaunched in September with Rie Miyazawa on the cover.[47]
L'Officiel USA
L'Officiel USA was originally launched in 1976 as one of the first international editions of the magazine, but was later shuttered in 1980.[64] In 2017 L'Officiel USA launched online headed by Joseph Akel with funding from Global Emerging Markets, with the first print edition in February 2018.[17] The Magazine is based in New York City.[65] In December 2021, the City of New York brought an action against L'Officiel USA Inc. under the Freelance Isn't Free Act, claiming that the magazine had failed to pay freelance contributors.[66][67][68] A settlement was reached in July 2023 with L'Officiel agreeing to pay 41 freelancers US$275,000.[69]
^ abcdefgCorine Moriou (September 1, 2006). "Le groupe édite L'Officiel, Jalouse, L'Optimum, etc.; Jalou, les magazines qui font des jaloux" (in French). L'Entreprise, page 54.
^Tonchi, Stefano (2021). L'Officiel 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century in Fashion. Marsilio. p. 149. ISBN978-8829712809. L'Officiel's original Editor-in-Chief Dominique Gaffory firmly believed that it was only in France that the art of couture could flourish.
^Tonchi, Stefano (2021). L'Officiel 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century in Fashion. Marsilio. p. 136. ISBN978-8829712809. Andreé Castanié served as editor-in-chief of L'Officiel throughout the entirety of the war. [World War Two]
^Tonchi, Stefano (2021). L'Officiel 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century in Fashion. Marsilio. p. 24. ISBN978-8829712809. He [Georges Jalou] started as head graphic designer and in 1947 became chief editor.
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