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Gurdial Singh
Personal information
Main discipline	Mountaineer
Born	1 January 1924
Died	30 May 2023 (aged 99); Chandigarh, India
Nationality	Indian
Career
Notable ascents	- Led the first Indian expedition to Trisul (1951); - First ascent of Mrigthuni (1958); - Member of the first Indian expedition to Mount Everest (1965)

Gurdial Singh (1 January 1924 – 30 May 2023) was an Indian schoolteacher and mountaineer who led the first mountaineering expedition of independent India to Trisul (7,120 metres) in 1951. In 1958, he led the team that made the first ascent of Mrigthuni (6,855 metres).^[5]^[6] ^[7] In 1965, he was a member of the first successful Indian expedition team to climb Mount Everest.^[8]^[3]^[9]

Singh also led many expeditions at The Doon School, where he was a geography teacher, and along with other Doon masters and students was instrumental in establishing a mountaineering culture in post-Independence India.^[10] Singh has been described as "the first true Indian mountaineer", and in 2020, the Himalayan Journal noted "Gurdial climbed for pleasure, to enjoy the mountains in the company of friends, to savour the beauty and grandeur of the high ranges, not to find fame or bag summits."^[11]

Life and career

Gurdial Singh joined The Doon School in 1945 and it was here that he was influenced by Englishmen such as John Martyn, R.L. Holdsworth and Jack Gibson to take up mountaineering. The first headmaster of Doon Arthur Foot was a member of the Alpine Club.^[10]^[12] Together, they scaled many peaks including Bandarpunch, Trisul, Kamet, Abi Gamin and Nanda Devi.^[13]^[14] He was the first Indian member of the famed Alpine Club, which was "a club of English gentlemen devoted to mountaineering".^[13] In 1965, Singh climbed Mount Everest as a member of the first successful Indian expedition, led by Mohan Singh Kohli.

Singh remained unmarried throughout his life, and often said that he was "married to the mountains".^[11]^[15] He died following complications due to a hip fracture and chikungunya at his home in Chandigarh, on 30 May 2023. Singh was 99.^[15]

Awards

Apart from being the first Indian to be included in the Alpine Club, Singh was given the Arjuna Award in 1965 for his contributions towards Indian mountaineering. In 1967, Singh was awarded Padma Shri,^[13]^[16] the fourth highest civilian award in India. In 2007, Gurdial Singh was given a Lifetime Achievement Award and the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award for his contributions towards Indian mountaineering.^[17]^[18]^[19]

References

Notes

^ Greenwood, R. D. (1952). "TRISUL, 1951". Himalayan Journal. Vol. 17.
^ Ali, Aamir (1958). "MRIGTHUNI, 1958". Himalayan Journal. Vol. 21.
^ ^a ^b Ghosh, Padmaparna; Sengupta, Rudraneil (16 May 2015). "The first Indians on Everest". mint. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
^ Kapadia, Harish (1999). Across Peaks & Passes in Garhwal Himalaya. Indus Publishing. p. 15. OCLC 42718179.
^ Sahi, Sudhir (31 October 1989). "Book review: M.S. Kohli Vikas 'Mountaineering In India'". India Today. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
^ The Times, Wednesday, 4 July 1951; pg. 5; Issue 52044; col B
^ Sengupta, Rudraneil (4 May 2012). "Vertical limit". mint. Archived from the original on 6 May 2012. Retrieved 16 May 2012.
^ Mathai, Kamini (12 April 2015). "50 years later, it's happily Everest after". Times of India. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
^ "PM meets members of 1965 Everest Expedition on the golden jubilee of the occasion". Press Information Bureau, Government of India. 20 May 2015. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
^ ^a ^b Anderson, Richard (2001). "Climbing with Doon School" (PDF). Alpine Journal. 106. London.
^ ^a ^b Dubey, Suman (2020). "This Is His Life: Gurdial Singh". Himalayan Journal. Vol. 75.
^ "Climb every mountain". The Hindu. Chennai, India. 24 February 2002. Archived from the original on 28 April 2002. Retrieved 16 May 2012.
^ ^a ^b ^c Jayal, Nalni D. (2006). "Early Years of Indian Mountaineering". The Himalayan Journal. Vol. 62. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
^ Aitken, Bill (3 February 2002). "Capturing the mystique of mountains". Tribuneindia.com. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
^ ^a ^b Sharda, Deepankar (30 May 2023). "Mountaineering legend Gurdial Singh passes away after prolonged illness". The Tribune. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
^ "Previous Awardees". Padma Awards. Government of India. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
^ "'Olympic gold is my aim'". The Hindu. Chennai, India. 30 August 2007. Archived from the original on 19 November 2007.
^ "City's old-but-young-at-heart citizens". Express India. 2 October 2007. Archived from the original on 22 January 2013.
^ "Report for the year 2007-08". Indian Mountaineering Foundation. 17 November 2007. Retrieved 10 May 2024.

Bibliography

Singh, Gurdial; Jayal, Nandu (2001). For Hills to Climb. Doon School Old Boys' Society.
Gibson, Jack (2008). An Indian Englishman. ISBN 9781435734616.