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Gainerie is the art of making sheaths, cases, sheaths for swords, sabres, daggers, along with boxes, wallets, chests, desk mats, upholstery leathers, and other objects.^[1]

The gainer dyes his leathers himself and sometimes applies gilding with a heated tool.

Gainerie-gilding of a leather by Bernard Rosenblum, artisan at the faubourg Saint-Antoine.

Etymology

The artisan of gainerie was called the gainier, derived from the old French "Gaisnier," etymologically from the word "sheath," referring to the leather sword sheath.^[2]

History

Historically, French gainerie was organised into a corporation during the reign of Louis IX and into a jurande body in 1323.^[3]

In 1560, Francis II confirmed the privileges of the gainiers’ corporation and even extended them; these regulations remained in force until 1776. At that time, the corporation of coffer-makers and trunk-makers disappeared, merging with the gainiers' corporation.^[4]

Around the 16th century, a strong rivalry arose between the bookbinders and the gainiers. Some gainiers acquired gilding tools, but since the bookbinders' corporation had a much greater prestige, it was the bookbinders who obtained the exclusive use of royal gilding tools, often encroaching on the gainiers' domain by taking advantage of royal privilege.^[5]

Later, gainerie experienced considerable growth in France at the beginning of the 19th century, especially around 1830, due to the development of industries that required cases or containers. At that time, the French were renowned worldwide for the good taste of their productions.

Regarding leather upholstery and the sheathing of desk surfaces, this practice appeared under the Regency and gained momentum under the reign of Louis XV with the emergence of drop-front secretaries.

The types of leather used in gainerie were mainly morocco leather, shagreen, galuchat, as well as other leathers. The works were often adorned with simple or elaborate gilding applied with a heated tool.

Notable gainiers

François Lambert 18th century
Bernard Rosenblum 20th century

References

^ United States. Department of Commerce; Hertz, Norman (1920). Hides and Leather in France. U.S. Government Printing Office. p. 36.
^ Contanseau, Léon (1884). A Practical Dictionary of the French and English Languages. Longmans. p. 187.
^ Lami, Eugène-Oscar (1881). Encyclopedic and Biographical Dictionary of Industry and Industrial Arts. Vol. 5. Libraire des dictionnaires. p. 354.
^ La grande encyclopédie: inventaire raisonné des sciences, des lettres et des arts par une Société de savants et de gens de lettres. Vol. 18. Société anonyme de la Grande encyclopédie. 1885. p. 357.
^ Clarétie, Armand-Calliat (1902). Ministry of Commerce, Industry, Posts and Telegraphs. 1900 International Universal Exhibition, in Paris. Reports of the International Jury: Classes 92 to 100. Imprimerie Nationale. p. 61.

Bibliography

,Diderot, Denis (1777). Encyclopédie, ou, Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers (in French). Vol. 26. Creative Media Partners, LLC. ISBN 9780341585992. LCCN 04036504.
Almanach Dauphin, Tablettes royales, dedicated to Monsieur le Dauphin, 1777.
Histoire générale de Paris, Les métiers et corporations de la Ville de Paris, Livre des Métiers by Étienne Boileau, published by René de Lespinasse and François Bonnardot, Imprimerie nationale, 1879.
DLami, Eugene-Oscar, ed. (1881). Dictionnaire encyclopédique et biographique de l'industrie et des arts industriels. Avec la collaboration des savants, spécialistes et praticiens les plus éminents de notre époque [Encyclopedic and biographical dictionary of industry and industrial arts] (in French). Vol. 7. Paris: Librairie des dictionnaires. ISBN 978-0265956465. LCCN 52051948.
La Collection Bettenfeld-Rosenblum, 2000 Patterns and Ornaments, Masahiro Miyamoto, Éditions Gakken, 1987.
Bookbinders' Finishing Tool Makers 1780-1965, Tom Conroy, Éditions Oak Knoll Press, 2002.
Le Galuchat, Jean Perfettini, Éditions H. Vial, 2005.