Etro

Etro
Company typePrivate
IndustryRetail
Founded1968
FounderGimmo Etro
Headquarters
Milan
,
Italy
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Kean Etro
Jacopo Etro
Veronica Etro
Ippolito Etro
ProductsClothing, footwear, handbags, jewellery, perfumes, textiles and home furnishings
RevenueIncrease US$372 million (2018)[1]
Websitewww.etro.com

Etro is a family-managed Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1968. It is mainly known for its paisley patterns, which the company started making in 1981.

History

Etro was founded in 1968 by Gerolamo "Gimmo" Etro[2] as a textile design company.[3][4] By the time the company was born, Gimmo and his wife, Roberta, an antiques dealer, had amassed a collection of 300 antique shawls, still one of the largest private collections in existence today.[5] The main stylistic driver for Etro over its first decades was the paisley pattern, and variations on this theme.[6] The company's headquarters is located in Milan on Via Spartaco, and was refurbished in 1977.[7] The headquarters includes textile art archived in their in-house library.[8] Future textiles head Jacopo Etro later commented on this period,[9] stating that he had started to visit the archive when he was a child, spending many hours copying the fabric designs and experimenting with his own creative style.[10] After a trip to India made by Etro executives, the furnishing textiles line made its debut in 1981.[11] The "swirling" paisley design found on this trip is now "synonymous" with the label according to Elle Magazine.[12]

The company began producing leather goods in 1984, crafted from Paisley Jacquard fabrics.[13] Etro then began its home collection in 1985.[14] The Fragrances collection was launched in 1989,[15] making its debut in the Milanese Fragrances flagship boutique, located on Via Verri. More recent additions of the line include Rajasthan[16] and Jacquard.[17] Etro's first fashion show at Milan Fashion Week was held in 1996.[18] The company began sales by direct-mail through inserts in The New York Times starting in 1999,[19] and it began selling its clothing online in addition to in retail stores in 2013.[20] In 2014, a monograph on the company's history entitled Etro was published by Rizzoli publishing house.[21]

By 2018, Etro reported $372 million in annual revenue.[22] By 2021, the company operated 140 flagships in 58 countries with boutiques in cities such as Milan, London, Paris, New York, Beijing and Tokyo.[23] That year, it also took control of its South Korean business by opening a subsidiary in Seoul.[24]

In 2021, L Catterton agreed to buy a 60% stake in Etro, in a deal valuing the company at about 500 million euros ($590 million).[25][26][27] In 2022, Etro appointed designer Marco De Vincenzo as its new creative director for women’s, men’s and home collections,[28] making him the brand’s first head designer from outside the Etro family.[29]

Management

Family

Kean Etro

Etro is identified primarily with Gimmo (born Gerolamo), the founder, however the company is managed by his four children:[30]

  • Kean Etro was the creative director of the Etro Man collections, sometimes inspired by his travels and antique book collection.[31] He joined the family business in 1986 as a digital intern. In 1990 he designed his first menswear collection, and in 1996 he produced a fashion show focused on the concept of "New Tradition".[32]
  • Veronica Etro was the creative director of the Etro Woman collections.[33] She unveiled her first womenswear collection in 2000.[34]
  • Jacopo Etro worked for the family business from 1982, eventually becoming the Creative Director of the Etro Accessories, Leather, Home and Textile collections, as well as Head of Communication. In 2010, he was also invited to sit on the board of the Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana as the delegate for the Italian textile industry.[35]
  • Ippolito Etro joined the company in 1991, overseeing the Administration Department before his promotion to General Director.[36] He was quoted by The New York Times stating: "My father always told us that we could do what we wanted in life. But he said, 'If you work here, you have to start from scratch'".[37]

CEOs

  • Fabrizio Cardinali: 2021–present[38][39]

Collections

Menswear

The menswear collection has been presented through conceptual catwalk shows, including the 2003 Autumn/Winter collection that had guests ride on a 1937 steam train through urban Milan, with the models walking through the cabins.[40] Other pieces have included "cooked" shirts, where the pieces are dyed with berries or other food-stuffs in order to produce their intended designs.[41]

Womenswear

The womenswear line was launched in 1991.[42] For the 2016 Spring/Summer womenswear collection presented in Milan, Angelo Flaccavento wrote that it "show[ed] off the savoir-faire of her ateliers", using a ballerina-lingerie theme. He wrote further of the lighter direction the collection moved in from previous seasons that "Everything had a charming, undone quality that looked appealing and felt new".[43] The New York Times called the collection an "ode to turn-of-the-century femininity", also mentioning the strong influence of dance throughout the show.[44] From 2017 on, Veronica and Kean started showing their collections together.[45]

Etro Home

Starting in 1985, Etro added home textiles, pillows and plaids to its portfolio.[46][47] These were followed by ceramics, gifts and wallpaper.[48] Everything is produced in-house except for furniture.

In 2014, Etro opened its first Etro Home store in Milan during the Salone del Mobile.[49]

In 2017, the company entered into a licensing agreement with Jumbo Group in Cantù – later called Oniro Group – for the production and distribution of furniture.[50] In 2020, Etro revealed the brand would start developing fabrics for the outdoors, to be employed in gardens or boats.[51] In 2024, Etro entered into a partnership with Rams Global on manufacturing and supply of customized products for the Tower Rams Beyond in the Maslak neighborhood of Istanbul, making it the brand’s first residential project.[52]

Fragrances

Etro also has a line of fragrances, some using the theme of "ancient perfumery".[53] In 2024, the company and Coty signed an agreement for the production and distribution of Etro fragrance lines and home scent collections beyond 2040.[54]

Other projects

Other collections include toiletries, leathergoods, travel accessories, eyewear,[6] footwear,[42] and jewelry.[55] In 2023, the brand signed a multiyear licensing agreement with Italian manufacturing company Simonetta to launch Etro Kids, a childrenswear line.[56]

Controversy

In a 2018 lawsuit filed in New York State Supreme Court, former Etro employee Kim Weiner alleged the company had been discriminating against employees on the basis of race, gender and age, arguing she herself was fired after taking a stand against the company’s biased practices.[57]

References

  1. ^ Alexandra Marshall (February 23, 2018), How An Italian Family Turned Paisley Prints And Haute-Hippe Garb Into a 50-Year-Old Fashion Legacy W
  2. ^ "Creative director at Etro takes inspiration from native textiles". South China Morning Post. 1 January 2015.
  3. ^ Mary Lisa Gavenas (2008). The Fairchild Encyclopedia of Menswear. Fairchild Books. p. 137.
  4. ^ Björn Stüwe (2009). Produktklassiker: Quintessenzen der Konsumkultur (in German). Springer-Verlag. p. 139.
  5. ^ Alexandra Marshall (August 15, 2017), The Colorful World of Etro WSJ..
  6. ^ a b Peggy Fincher Winters and Carole Paul (2002). Brandstand: Strategies for Retail Brand Building. Visual Reference Publications. p. 57.
  7. ^ Christina Binkley (26 January 2012). "The Healthy Sibling Rivalry in a Design House". WSJ.
  8. ^ The Independent. "Fashion: Raison D'Etro". The Independent. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  9. ^ "Etro is the latest Italian fashion house to hit the block". thedeal.com. Archived from the original on 2014-08-27.
  10. ^ Marie Claire Italia. "Etro: i tessuti, l'arredamento, le borse, i profumi e la moda" (in Italian). Marie Claire Italia. Archived from the original on 7 April 2014. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  11. ^ Vogue. "Voguepedia". Vogue. Archived from the original on 31 March 2014. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  12. ^ "Etro Collections - Etro Runway Show Archive - ELLE". ELLE.
  13. ^ "Le Souk". lesouk.co.
  14. ^ "Etro Home Collection SS15". LuxPad.
  15. ^ Alexandra Marshall (August 15, 2017), The Colorful World of Etro WSJ..
  16. ^ Vogue India. "Italians make a perfume of Rajasthan". Vogue India. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  17. ^ InStyle. "Spring Fragrances". InStyle. Archived from the original on 29 March 2014. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  18. ^ Allison Cawley. "Italian Fashion from Etro". Peachfully Chic.
  19. ^ Winters and Paul, 63.
  20. ^ Harpers Bazaar. "Etro launches e-commerce on revamped website". Harpers Bazaar. Archived from the original on 7 April 2014. Retrieved 3 April 2014.
  21. ^ Hannah Martin. "Preview Etro, a new monograph from Rizzoli". Architectural Digest.
  22. ^ Alexandra Marshall (February 23, 2018), How An Italian Family Turned Paisley Prints And Haute-Hippe Garb Into a 50-Year-Old Fashion Legacy W
  23. ^ Luisa Zargani (July 18, 2021), L Catterton Takes Control of Etro Women's Wear Daily.
  24. ^ Martino Carrera (January 27, 2021), Etro Opens South Korean Subsidiary Women's Wear Daily.
  25. ^ Elisa Anzolin and Claudia Cristoferi (April 19, 2021), Italy's Etro is considering interest from L Catterton -source Reuters.
  26. ^ Silvia Aloisi (July 18, 2021), LVMH-backed fund to buy 60% of Italian fashion label Etro -sources Reuters.
  27. ^ Luisa Zargani (July 18, 2021), L Catterton Takes Control of Etro Women's Wear Daily.
  28. ^ Hannah Militano (25 February 2022), Etro Names New Creative Director, Designer Marco De Vincenzo Grazia.
  29. ^ Laura Rysman (11 June 2022), What Would Happen if Fashion Actually Slowed Down? New York Times.
  30. ^ "Etro". The Cut.
  31. ^ "In each neighbourhood there lies a special shop". The New York Times. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  32. ^ Armand Limnander. "Profile in Style: Kean Etro". The New York Times. Retrieved 3 April 2014.
  33. ^ "A conversation with Veronica Etro". Vogue Italia. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  34. ^ The Daily Telegraph. "Little Black Book: Veronica Etro". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 3 April 2014.
  35. ^ Antonio Nieto. "The Collector". The Sunday Times. Archived from the original on April 7, 2014. Retrieved 3 April 2014.
  36. ^ Robin Mellery-Pratt. "Ippolito Etro to Exit Family Business to Pursue 'New Horizons'". Business of Fashion. Retrieved 2 April 2014.[permanent dead link‍]
  37. ^ "Succession Problems Make Them Targets for Acquisition : Can Italy Houses Stay Alive?". The New York Times. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  38. ^ Luisa Zargani (9 September 2021), EXCLUSIVE: Etro Appoints Fabrizio Cardinali CEO Women's Wear Daily.
  39. ^ Claudia Cristoferi (9 September 2021), Italian fashion group Etro picks new CEO after L Catterton takeover Reuters.
  40. ^ "Treni, banche e fabbriche per le sfilate della moda maschile". Corriere della Sera. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  41. ^ Michael Slenske (June 2008). "Kean Eye". Best Life. p. 94.
  42. ^ a b Francesca Sterlacci Purvin and Joanne Arbuckle (2007). Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry. Scarecrow Press. p. 70.
  43. ^ "Etro's Pale Damsels". The Business of Fashion.
  44. ^ Laura Rysman (September 25, 2015). "At Etro, Beauty Fit For Ballet". The New York Times.
  45. ^ Alexandra Marshall (August 15, 2017), The Colorful World of Etro WSJ..
  46. ^ John Graham (2005). Where to Wear London. Where to Wear International Ltd. p. 70.
  47. ^ Luisa Zargani (October 14, 2020), Etro Further Developing Its Home Line Women's Wear Daily.
  48. ^ Luisa Zargani (October 14, 2020), Etro Further Developing Its Home Line Women's Wear Daily.
  49. ^ "The Business: Jacopo Etro". Telegraph.co.uk. Archived from the original on 2014-04-15.
  50. ^ Luisa Zargani (October 14, 2020), Etro Further Developing Its Home Line Women's Wear Daily.
  51. ^ Luisa Zargani (October 14, 2020), Etro Further Developing Its Home Line Women's Wear Daily.
  52. ^ Luisa Zargani (11 October 2024), Etro Launches First Branded Residential Project Women's Wear Daily.
  53. ^ "Etro launch Marquetry and Io Myself". basenotes.net.
  54. ^ Sandra Salibian (20 February 2024), Coty and Etro Ink Long-term Beauty License Women's Wear Daily.
  55. ^ Alexa Brazilian (September 25, 2015). "The Daily Jewel: Etro". The New York Times.
  56. ^ Sandra Salibian (3 May 2023), Etro to Introduce Kids Line Women's Wear Daily.
  57. ^ Jonah Engel Bromwich and Vanessa Friedman (August 30, 2018), Lawsuit Accuses the Italian Fashion House Etro of Discrimination New York Times.

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