Carlos Buhler (born October 17, 1954, in Harrison, New York) is one of America's leading high altitude mountaineers. Buhler's specialty is high-standard mountaineering characterized by small teams, no oxygen, minimal gear and equipment, and relatively low amounts of funding; yielding first ascents of difficult routes in challenging conditions, such as the Himalayan winter season.
1980 East Ridge, Baruntse, Barun Valley, Himalaya, Nepal. New route and 2nd ascent with Lorenzo Ortas, Javier Escartin, and Jeronimo Lopez (all Spain). April 27, 1980. Gonzalo Prado and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa reached summit next day.[5]
1981 South Face to East Ridge Traverse, Obispo, East Ridge to West Ridge Traverse, Fraile Grande, El Altar, Sangay National Park, Ecuador, with (Obispo) David Jones (America). November, 1981 and (Fraile Grande) Michael Orr (Great Britain). December 1981.[6]
1989 West (Polish) Ridge, Cho Oyu, Himalaya, Tibet/Nepal. First alpine style ascent with Martin Zabaleta (Spain/Basque). April 8, 1989.[13]
1990 Northeast Ridge, Dhaulagiri, Himalaya, Nepal. Summit reached with Nuru Sherpa (Nepal) and Dainius Makauskas (Lithuania), October 31, 1990. Makauskas disappeared on the descent. Buhler and Nuru Sherpa suffered severe frostbite.[14]
1992 West Ridge, Dorje Lhakpa or Dorje Lakpa, Jugal Himal, Himalaya, Nepal. First solo ascent. April 12–13, 1992.[15]
1996 West Ridge, Mount Miller, Saint Elias Mountains, Alaska USA. First ascent with Charles Sassara, Paul Claus (both America), Ruedi Homberger, Reto Ruesh (both Switzerland), April 12, 1996.[16]
1996 North Ridge, K2, Karakoram, China/Pakistan. Russian American ascent. Summit reached with Sergei Penzov and Igor Benkin (both Russia), August 14, 1996. Benkin died on the descent.[17][18]
1997 Diamir Face, Nanga Parbat, Himalaya, Pakistan. First Russian and second American Ascent. Summit reached with Ivan Dusharin (Russia), July 14, 1997. Viktor Kolishnichenko and Andrei Volkov (both Russia) reached the summit on July 18, 1997.[20][21]
1998 North Face, Peak Babuchka ca. (5220 meters), West Face, Peak Carnovsky ca. 4700 meters, Kakshaal Too (West Kokshal Tau), Central Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzstan, New routes with (Babuchka) Mark Price and Christian Beckwith (both America), July 7-8 and (Carnovsky) Mark Price, July 26-27, 1998.[23]
1999 West Face, Siula Grande, (6344 meters), Cordillera Huayhuash, Andes, Peru. New route Avoiding the Touch with Mark Price (America), June 16, 1999. [24]
1999 East Face Milarepa, 6262 meters, Rolwaling Himal, Himalaya, Nepal. First ascent with Mark Price (America), October 11-13, 1999.[25]
Fulfilled dying wish of Russian composer, Alexander Scriabin, to have his last composition, Mysterium, performed in the Himalaya (at Menlungtse/Milarepa Base Camp, Tibet).
1988 Mugs Stump Award, first year awarded. (Award honors “climbers attempting alpine climbing objectives that exemplify fast, light and clean tactics.”)
1988 American Mountain Foundation Award, for 1st American ascent of Kangchenjunga, world’s 3rd highest mountain.
1994 Mugs Stump Award for the West Face of K2.[33]
1999 Mugs Stump Award for Menlungtse/Milarepa.[34]
2001 Polartec Challenge Award, for “vision, commitment, credibility and respect for the local culture and environment [which] serve as role models to outdoor enthusiasts worldwide.”
2002 Ranked “Best of the Best”, and only American among the top four international high altitude climbers, by Everestnews.com. (2002 was the last year ranking was compiled.)[35]
2003 Western Washington University, Distinguished Alumni Award.[36]
2004 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Grant (awarded for cutting edge “bold first ascents or difficult repeats of most challenging routes”)[37]
2007 Robert and Miriam Underhill Award, for outstanding mountaineering achievement, by the American Alpine Club[38]
Keynote speaker and juror at leading mountain and wilderness film festivals:
2002 Mountainfilm in Telluride Festival, Telluride, Colorado
2003 Wild and Scenic Film Festival, Nevada City, California
2004 Banff Mountain Film Festival, Banff, Canada
2006 Juror, Trento Mountain Film Festival, Trento, Italy
2008 Juror, Inkafest Mountain Film Festival, Huaraz, Peru
Writings
Buhler, Carlos (1989). "Kangchenjunga's North Face". American Alpine Journal. 31 (63). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 23–30. ISBN0-930410-39-4.
Buhler, Carlos (1998). "University Peak, The wild card of the Wrangell-St. Elias". American Alpine Journal. 40 (72). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 78–87. ISBN0-930410-78-5.
Buhler, Carlos (1999). "Russian Style on Changabang". American Alpine Journal. 41 (73). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 106–113. ISBN0-930410-84-X.
References
^"Carlos Buhler". Alumni profiles. Western Washington University. Retrieved 2014-03-19.
^Díaz Ibañez, Juan José (1983). Expedición Aragonesa al Himalaya Baruntse (7220). Zaragoza, Aragon, Spain: Caja de Ahorros y Monte de Piedad de Zaragoza, Aragon y Rioja. ISBN8450083397.
^Buhler, Carlos (1983). "Obispo and Fraile Grande, Altar Group, 1981". American Alpine Journal. 25 (57). New York, New York: American Alpine Club: 184. ISBN0-930410-21-1.
^Unsworth, Walt (2000). Everest, The Mountaineering History. Seattle, WA, USA: Mountaineers Books. p. 501. ISBN978-0-89886-670-4.
^Buhler, Carlos (1985). "Aconcagua, South Face". American Alpine Journal. 27 (59). New York, New York: American Alpine Club: 238. ASINB07VZY5PF8.
^Buhler, Carlos (1986). "Anqosh Face of Huascarán". American Alpine Journal. 28 (60). NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 81–86. ISBN0-930410-27-0.
^Kennedy, Michael (1987). "A Hidden Gem - Ama Dablam's Northeast Face". American Alpine Journal. 29 (61). NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 32–41. ISBN0-930410-29-7.
^Buhler, Carlos (1988). "Pumasillo and Mellizos, Cordillera Vilcabamba". American Alpine Journal. 30 (62). New York, New York: American Alpine Club: 41–48. ISBN0-930410-33-5.
^Buhler, Carlos (1989). "Kangchenjunga's North Face". American Alpine Journal. 31 (63). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 23–30. ISBN0-930410-39-4.
^Buhler, Carlos (1990). "Cho Oyu". American Alpine Journal. 32 (64). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 237–238. ISBN0-930410-43-2.
^Buhler, Carlos (1991). "Dhaulagiri Ascent and Tragedy". American Alpine Journal. 33 (65). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 242–244. ISBN0-930410-46-7.
^Buhler, Carlos (1993). "Alone on Dorje Lhakpa". American Alpine Journal. 35 (67). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 19–26. ISBN0-930410-55-6.
^Sassara, Charlie (1997). "Mount Miller, First Ascent". American Alpine Journal. 39 (71). Golden, Colorado: American Alpine Club: 192–195. ISBN0-930410-6-53.
^Dusharin, Ivan (1997). "K2, North Ridge". American Alpine Journal. 39 (71). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 347–349. ISBN0-930410-6-53.
^Buhler, Carlos (1998). "University Peak, The wild card of the Wrangell-St. Elias". American Alpine Journal. 40 (72). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 78–87. ISBN0-930410-78-5.
^Buhler, Carlos (1999). "Russian Style on Changabang". American Alpine Journal. 41 (73). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 106–113. ISBN0-930410-84-X.
^Beckwith, Christian (1999). "Kazil Asker Area, Various Ascents". American Alpine Journal. 41 (73). Golden, Colorado: American Alpine Club: 414–418. ISBN0-930410-84-X.
^Price, Mark (2000). "Siula Grande, West Face, Avoiding the Touch". American Alpine Journal. 42 (74). Golden, Colorado: American Alpine Club: 254–255. ISBN0-930410-87-4.
^Buhler, Carlos (2000). "Menlungtse, Attempt, and Milarepa, Ascent". American Alpine Journal. 42 (74). Golden, Colorado: American Alpine Club: 379–380. ISBN0-930410-87-4.
^Buhler, Carlos (2001). "Dhiang (a.k.a. Kampur), First Ascent". American Alpine Journal. 43 (75). Golden, Colorado: American Alpine Club: 362–363. ISBN0-930410-89-0.
^Buhler, Carlos (2009). "Cerro Castillo, East Face". American Alpine Journal. 51 (83). Golden, Colorado: American Alpine Club: 203–204. ISBN978-1-933056-09-8.
^Sylvester, Rick (1979). "From Russia With Luck". American Alpine Journal. NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 62–69.