Aldeburgh, as a port, gained borough status in 1529 under Henry VIII. Its historic buildings include a 16th-century moot hall and a Napoleonic-era Martello Tower. A third of its housing consists of second homes.[6] Visitors are drawn to its Blue Flag beach and fisherman huts, where fresh fish is sold, to Aldeburgh Yacht Club and to its cultural offerings. Two family-run fish and chip shops have been rated among the country's best.[7] The independent Aldeburgh bookshop has been in business for more than seventy years, is locally thought to have been the site of the birthplace of George Crabbe (1754–1832)[8] and has organised the annual Aldeburgh Literary Festival since 2002.[9][10][11]
History
Aldeburgh is the bottom-right settlement shown in this 1588 map
The name "Aldeburgh" derives from the Old Englishald (old) and burh (fortification),[12] although this structure, along with much of the Tudor town, has now been lost to the sea. In the 16th century, Aldeburgh was a leading port and had a flourishing shipbuilding industry. The flagship of the Virginia Company, the Sea Venture is believed to have been built here in 1608. Aldeburgh's importance as a port declined as the River Alde silted up and larger ships could no longer berth. It survived mainly on fishing until the 19th century, when it also became a seaside resort. Much of its distinctive, whimsical architecture dates from that period. The river is now home to a yacht club and a sailing club.
Between 1959 and 1968, the village was the location of a Royal Observer Corps monitoring bunker, to be used in the event of a nuclear attack. The bunker was later demolished and no trace survives.[13]
Aldeburgh is on the North Sea coast, about 87 miles (140 kilometres) north-east of London, 20 mi (32 km) north-east of Ipswich and 23 mi (37 km) south of Lowestoft. Locally it is 4 mi (6 km) south of the town of Leiston and 2 mi (3 km) south of the village of Thorpeness. It lies just north of the River Alde, with the narrow shingle spit of Orford Ness all that stops the river meeting the sea at Aldeburgh – instead it flows another 9 mi (14 km) to the south-west.
The beach is mainly shingle and wide in places, allowing fishing boats to draw up onto the beach above the high tide, but it narrows at the neck of Orford Ness. The shingle bank allows access to the Ness from the north, passing a Martello tower and two yacht clubs at the site of the former village of Slaughden. Aldeburgh was flooded in the North Sea flood of 1953, after which its flood defences were strengthened.[14] The beach received a Blue Flag rural beach award in 2005.
Two smaller geological SSSI units lie on the southern edges. Aldeburgh Brick Pit, of 0.84-hectare (2.1-acre), shows a clear stratigraphy of Red Crag deposits above Corralline Crag.[19] Aldeburgh Hall Pit is a shallow pit 0.8 ha (2.0 acres) in area, featuring a section of Corralline Crag. It is seen as one of the best sites in Britain for Neogene fauna.[20]
Aldeburgh was a parliamentary borough from 1571 and returned two Members of Parliament (MPs), the right to vote being vested in the town's freemen. By the mid-18th century it was classed as a rotten borough, as the votes were controlled by a City of London merchant, Thomas Fonnereau:[22] and memorably described it as "a venal little borough in Suffolk".[23] It lost its representation under the Great Reform Act of 1832.
In 1908 Aldeburgh became the first British town to elect a female mayor: Elizabeth Garrett Anderson, whose father, Newson Garrett, had been mayor in 1889. In 2006, Sam Wright became Aldeburgh's town crier and mace bearer at 15, and so the youngest in the world.[24]
In 1885 Aldeburgh became a municipal borough which became part of the administrative county of East Suffolk in 1889, the district contained the parish of Aldeburgh.[25] On 1 April 1934 part of Hazlewood parish was added Aldeburgh parish and district from Plomesgate Rural District when Hazlewood was abolished.[26] On 1 April 1974 the district was abolished and became part of Suffolk Coastal in the non-metropolitan county of Suffolk.[27] A successor parish was formed covering the same area as the former district and its parish.[28] In 2019 Aldeburgh became part of East Suffolk district.
The RNLI station in the town was operating two lifeboats in 2016.
Moot Hall
The sundial of the Moot Hall.
The Moot Hall is a Grade I listed timber-framed building, used for council meetings for more than 400 years. The Town Clerk's office remains there and it houses the local museum. It was built in about 1520 and altered in 1654. The brick and stone infilling of the ground floor is later. The hall was restored and the external staircase and gable ends were rebuilt in 1854–1855 under the direction of R. M. Phipson, chief architect of the Diocese of Norwich, in which Aldeburgh then stood. There are 64 other listed historic buildings and monuments in the town.[31]
Martello Tower
The Martello Tower viewed from across its bridge
A uniquequatrefoilMartello Tower stands at the isthmus leading to the Orford Ness shingle spit. It is the largest and northernmost of 103 English defensive towers built in 1808–1812 to resist a threatened Napoleonic invasion.[32] The Landmark Trust now runs it as holiday apartments.[33] From May 2015 to May 2016, an Antony Gormley statue was on display on the roof as part of his LAND art installation.
The Martello Tower is the only surviving building of the fishing village of Slaughden, which had been washed away by the North Sea by 1936. Near the Martello Tower at Slaughden Quay are barely visible remains of the fishing smackIonia. It had become stuck in the treacherous mud of the River Alde and was then used as a houseboat. It was burnt in 1974 after becoming unsafe.
The four-storey windmill at the southern end of the town was built in 1824 and converted into a dwelling in 1902.
WW2 tank trap
A WW2 tank trap can be seen next to Slaughden Road.[34]
The Aldeburgh Beach Lookout, built c. 1830
Aldeburgh Beach Lookout
The Aldeburgh Beach Lookout is a historic landmark on the Aldeburgh seafront. Grade II listed,[35] it was built in about 1830 as a lookout tower to assist or plunder shipping along the hazardous North Sea coast. The South African writer Laurens van der Post did his writing there for more than thirty years. Since 2010, the lookout has provided an artistic space for residents and tourists, with Antony Gormley sculptures on display between the lookout and the sea.
Scallop
Scallop
On Aldeburgh's beach, a short distance north of the town centre, stands a sculpture called Scallop, dedicated to Benjamin Britten, who would walk along the beach in the afternoons. Created from stainless steel by the Suffolk-based artist Maggi Hambling, it stands 15 feet (4.6 metres) high and was unveiled in November 2003.[36] The piece is made up of two interlocking scallop shells, each broken, the upright shell being pierced by the words, "I hear those voices that will not be drowned," taken from Britten's opera Peter Grimes. The sculpture is meant to be enjoyed both visually and in a tactile way: people are encouraged to sit on it and watch the sea.
The upright portion of the shell splits into three sections positioned at different angles. The positioning of these effects a visual transformation, depending on the vantage point from which the sculpture is viewed.
The sculpture is controversial in the local area,[37] with some local residents considering it "spoils the beach".[36] It has been vandalised with graffiti and paint on thirteen occasions.[36] There have been petitions both for its removal and retention.[36]
Detail of Scallop viewed from the sea in July 2019
Scallop, by Maggie Hambling, as viewed from the path leaving Aldeburgh in the direction of Thorpeness, from which vantage it takes the shape of a seabird
Scallop, viewed from the path between Aldeburgh and Thorpeness, looking back towards Aldeburgh, from which vantage the sculpture takes the shape of two men in a boat, referencing a central incident from the opera Peter Grimes
First World War
A nearby aerodrome, Royal Naval Air Station Aldeburgh, was used in the First World War as a night landing ground and for training observers.[38]
Henry Johnson (c. 1659–1719), the "greatest shipbuilder and shipowner of his day" and MP for Aldeburgh, 1689–1719
George Crabbe (1754–1832), poet, was born in Aldeburgh, which features in his poems The Village and The Borough. The latter concerns a fisherman named Peter Grimes, on whose story Benjamin Britten's opera of that name was based.[39][40]
John Liptrot Hatton (1809–1886) was an internationally celebrated English composer, conductor, pianist and singer who stayed in Aldeburgh for some time and wrote, for the place he loved, an Aldeburgh Te Deum.[41]
Elizabeth Garrett Anderson (1836–1917) was the first woman to qualify as a physician and surgeon in Britain, co-founder of first hospital staffed by women, first female dean of a British medical school, first female Doctor of Medicine in France, first woman in Britain elected to a school board, and as Mayor of Aldeburgh, first female mayor and magistrate in Britain. She is buried in the town churchyard[42]
Annie Hall Cudlip, (1838–1918) writer, novelist and short story writer, was born in Aldeburgh.[43]
Agnes Garrett (1845–1935), suffragist and interior designer, founded the Ladies Dwellings Company.[44]
Dame Millicent Fawcett (1847–1929), suffragist, feminist and writer, was born in Aldeburgh, where she set her one novel, Janet Doncaster.[45]
M. R. James (1862–1936), author, set a story, "A Warning to the Curious", in "Seaburgh" (Aldeburgh). Landmarks such as the Martello tower and White Lion Hotel feature.[46]
Joan Cross (1900–1993), soprano and theatre director who created several Britten opera roles, is buried in the town churchyard.
Gerry Fiennes (1906–1985), railway manager and author, was Mayor of Aldeburgh in 1976.
Imogen Holst (1907–1984), composer, conductor, teacher, assistant to Benjamin Britten, and co-director of the Aldeburgh Festival from 1956 to 1977, lived in Aldeburgh from 1952 and is buried in the town churchyard.[48]
Ian Tait (1926–2013) was a GP in Aldeburgh (from 1959) and one of the founders of the Aldeburgh Poetry Festival; he is known for his work in the modernisation of general practice.[50]
Aldeburgh Music Club, founded by Benjamin Britten and Peter Pears in 1952,[63] has since evolved into one of East Anglia's leading choirs, with about 100 members and more than 120 supporting patrons. It rehearses from early September to late May each year and holds three major performances, two of them at Snape Maltings Concert Hall.
The annual Aldeburgh Carnival in August has been held at least since 1892 and possibly since 1832, when "Ye Olde Marine Regatta" was mentioned. The focal point today is a carnival procession featuring locals and visitors dressed in homemade costumes and on floats, often with a topical or local theme. In the evening, a parade with Chinese lanterns and a firework display are traditional. The procession has been led for more than thirty years by Chief Marshal Trevor Harvey, also a Carnival Committee member for more than fifty years.[64]
The Suffolk Craft Society hold an annual themed exhibition in the Peter Pears Gallery over July and August, showing the work of its members.[citation needed]
The town of Aldeburgh, or "Owlbarrow", is the setting of a series of children's illustrated books centred on Orlando (The Marmalade Cat) written by Kathleen Hale, who spent holidays in the town. Many illustrations in the books feature landmarks in the town, including the Moot Hall. The town features in the 1989 thriller Cross of Fire by novelist Colin Forbes, as do the nearby villages of Dunwich and Snape Maltings.[65]James Herbert based his book The Jonah in the area, using several names represented in the local area for characters, including Slaughden.
Aldeburgh (spelt there Aldborough) is the location of a key scene in Wilkie Collins's novel No Name, where Captain Wragge and Magdalen Vanstone enact their conspiracy against Noel Vanstone and Mrs Lecount. The town's Martello Tower is (1862) mentioned as a landmark. Aldeburgh also features in Joseph Freeman's novel Arcadia Lodge as "Seaburgh", and in the M. R. James story A Warning to the Curious. The Maggi Hambling sculpture appears in an early scene, as do various other landmarks.[citation needed]
Fishing
Aldeburgh is notable for its line fishing for amateur anglers; it has been called "a great spot for bass, flounders, sole, dabs, cod, whiting and eels".[66] However, the East Anglian Daily Times says "countless years of commercial over-fishing has all but destroyed many of our [Suffolk's] offshore sea fisheries"[66] and traditional, sustainable inshore fishing is under threat, with likely knock-on effects for the coastal community.[67] Local fishermen featured in the "Fish Fight" campaigns of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Greenpeace, supporting small-scale inshore fishermen.[68][69]
Rugby
Aldeburgh is home to Aldeburgh and Thorpeness Rugby Club, based at Kings Field in Aldeburgh. The club runs an adult team in the Eastern Counties Leagues, an Under-15s team, Midi/Mini rugby, and Women's touch rugby. The club started out in nearby Thorpeness and moved in 2015 to work with Aldeburgh Town Council and Aldeburgh Community Centre.[citation needed]
Media
Local news and television programmes are provided by BBC East and ITV Anglia. Television signals are received from the Tacolneston TV transmitter and the local relay transmitter situated north-east of the town.[70]
These include Aldeburgh Cottage Hospital,[72][73] a traditional English cottage hospital, the Aldeburgh Library,[74] which also relies on volunteers,[75] and the Aldeburgh cinema,[76] which puts on films and cultural events.
Azure on water in base an ancient ship of three masts in full sail a ladder affixed to the side amidships Proper the mainsail charged with a lion rampant the fore and aft sails and pennons each charged with a cross Gules.
^"Home". poetryinaldeburgh. Retrieved 8 November 2022.
^Brown, Griselda Murray (March 2013). "Follow the music". 1 March 2013. ft.com. Archived from the original on 10 December 2022. Retrieved 3 March 2013.
^Newsham, Gavin (10 February 2002). "Top 10 chip shops". The Guardian. London. Archived from the original on 14 April 2010. Retrieved 23 April 2010.
^"Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's Fish Fight and Greenpeace, in association with NUTFA (the New Under Ten Fishermen's Association) are campaigning to support the UK inshore fishing industry.""From ship to Shaw". Places & Faces Magazine. Archived from the original on 5 May 2013. Retrieved 4 February 2013.
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