Asgard's slightly higher North Peak was first ascended in 1953 by J. Weber, J. Marmet, and Hans Röthlisberger, Swiss scientists on the Baffin Island Expedition of the Arctic Institute of North America, led by the Canadian, P. Baird.[6] Their route ascended the east side of the north peak, using a climbing traverse across snowfields and rock ribs, to reach the saddle between the two peaks, and thence to the top of the North Peak. The route is graded VI, 5.8/5.9 A1. It is still the most-travelled route and is the standard descent route for climbers making more difficult ascents on other faces.[7]
Mount Asgard aerial view
The South Peak was first climbed in 1971 by G. Lee, R. Wood, P. Clanky, J. Pavur, Y. Kamisawa and P. Koch. Since then, at least 13 routes have been put up on the two peaks, most involving highly technical free and aid climbing, with lengths varying from 800 to 1,200 m (2,600 to 3,900 ft). One of the most notable routes was put up in 1975 by Charlie Porter as a solo climb. This was "the first Baffin modern, multi-day, technical, big-wall climb", with 40 pitches rated at Grade VII, 5.10, A4 and it was followed by "a 10-day walk-out to the fjord-head without food". The fact that this was all done solo was "a remarkable achievement".[7]
In 2009, climbers and BASE jumpers Leo Houlding, Sean Leary and Carlos Quiroga Suarez participated in the Asgard Project, an attempt to make the first free ascent on the north tower of Mount Asgard. The film of their successful climb and descent, also called The Asgard Project, was critically acclaimed, winning 22 international film festival awards. After the film's release, Parks Canada charged all three climbers for trespassing and illegally BASE jumping within Auyuittuq National Park.[8]
The charges were later dropped after the climbers paid donations to an environmental charity and made a public apology for their climb.[9]
