Maggy Rouff

Portrait de Maggy Rouff Par Serge Ivanoff, Paris, 1948.
Signature of Maggy Rouff, cut from 1946 publicity for the textiles of Robert Perrier.

Maggy Rouff (September 1, 1896– August 7, 1971)[1] was a French fashion designer of Belgian origin.[2]

Family and early life

Maggy Rouff was born Marguerite de Wagner in 1896,[3] to a Belgian couple (though Madame de Wagner was German-born).[4] In 1902, Rouff's parents opened a couture house in Paris under the name Drécoll. This was a branch of the well-known Viennese fashion house Drécoll. Founded in 1896 by Christoff von Drécoll, the fashion house was a favorite of the Austro-Hungarian imperial family.[5] Monsieur and Madame de Wagner paid for the right to use the Drécoll name in Paris while designing their own fashions.[6]

Career

Marguerite (Maggy) de Wagner married Pierre Besançon in October 1917 in Paris and both subsequently adopted the name Besançon de Wagner. In 1929, Marguerite Besançon de Wagner opened a new fashion house at 136 avenue des Champs Elysees under the name Maggy Rouff.[7]

Rouff was known for her understated sportswear designs at the beginning of her career, and later for the feminine detailing in her garments such as ruffles, shirring, and the bias cut.[8]

In 1937, Rouff opened a London outpost at 12a Stanhope Gate, Park Lane. The business was housed in an old home which Rouff decorated herself.[9]

In the 1930s, Rouff headed PAIS (Association pour la Protection des Arts Plastiques et Appliques, also known as the Association pour la Protection des Industries Artistiques Saisonnieres), one of the most important anti-piracy and counterfeiting trade networks in Paris couture, which was founded by Madeleine Vionnet in 1922.[2]

Famous clients

Maggy Rouff is listed as costume designer or as part of the costume department for twelve films between 1938 and 1961.[10] The latter films may have been designed by Anne-Marie Besançon de Wagner using the Maggy Rouff label.

In 1938, the "children of France" gifted Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret two dresses and a set of handkerchiefs.[11] Other well-known clients included Grace Kelly[12] and Clarissa Churchill Eden.[13]

Writings

Rouff wrote two books, American Seen Through the Microscope, about her travels in the United States, and Philosophy of Elegance.[1]

Later life

Rouff retired in 1948. Her daughter Anne-Marie Besançon de Wagner took over the business. The house closed in 1965 after failing to attract younger customers.[1]

References

  1. ^ a b c Alford, Holly Price; Stegemeyer, Anne (2014-09-25). Who's Who in Fashion. Bloomsbury Publishing USA. ISBN 9781609019693.
  2. ^ a b Pouillard, Véronique (2008). "In the Shadow of Paris?". In Regina Lee Blaszczyk (ed.). Producing fashion commerce, culture, and consumers. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press. p. 66. ISBN 9780812206050.
  3. ^ "Notice no. 19800035/1090/25308". Base Léonore (in French).
  4. ^ Reeder, Jan Glier (2010). High style : masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 64. ISBN 9781588393630.
  5. ^ "House of Drécoll | Dinner dress | Austrian | The Met". The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum. Retrieved 2016-09-15.
  6. ^ "NMAH | Costume Collection". amhistory.si.edu. 4 August 2015. Retrieved 2016-09-15.
  7. ^ Sumathi, G. J. (2007-01-01). Elements of Fashion and Apparel Design. New Age International. ISBN 9788122413717.
  8. ^ Koda, Harold (2003). Goddess : the classical mode. New York, NY: Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 131. ISBN 9780300098822.
  9. ^ Wilson, Betty (November 20, 1937). "Champagne Party to Show New Season's Frocks". The Sydney Morning Herald. Retrieved September 15, 2016.
  10. ^ "Maggy Rouff". IMDb. Retrieved 2016-09-15.
  11. ^ "Explore the Royal Collection online". www.royalcollection.org.uk. Retrieved 2016-09-15.
  12. ^ LIFE. Time Inc. 1959-10-26.
  13. ^ Devonshire, Deborah Mitford, Duchess of Deborah Mitford, Duchess of; Mosley, Charlotte (2010-11-09). Wait for Me!: Memoirs. Macmillan. ISBN 9781429917933.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)


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