Island Bay is a coastal suburb of Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, situated 5 km (3.1 mi) south of the city centre.
Island Bay lies on the bay which shares its name, one of numerous small bays off Cook Strait and west of Lyall Bay. 500m offshore in Island Bay lies Tapu Te Ranga Island, which forms a natural breakwater and provides a sheltered anchorage for local fishing boats.
Tapu te Ranga Island is said to be Patawa, a point from which the legendary Māori chief Kupe sighted the giant octopus Te Wheke-a-Muturangi, which he pursued across Cook Strait.[7] In pre-European times, Island Bay was home to several pa, including Te Mupunga Kainga, today represented with a pou in Shorland Park.[8] A succession of iwi occupied Island Bay, including Ngai Tara and Ngati Ira.
A famous battle which took place on the beach of Island Bay has been well documented by Elsdon Best.[9] A raiding taua (war party) from Muau-poko were making their way to the Ngai Tara stronghold of Te Whetu-Kairangi, a fortified pa on what is now Miramar peninsula (but was then an island). In the morning, Ngai Tara warriors came down from Uruhau fort (modern day Southgate) and engaged Muau-poko in battle on the beach. Two Muau-poko chiefs were killed, and later cremated in Haewai (Houghton Bay).[9] This battle is commemorated with a pou on the zig-zag leading from Liffey Street to Orchy Crescent.[10]
During a battle in which Ngati Mutunga drove Ngati Ira from Wellington in 1827, Tamairangi, the wife of the Ngati Ira chief, is said to have sought refuge on Tapu te Ranga Island with her children, fleeing by canoe when Tapu te Ranga Island was besieged.[11] In Treaty of Waitangi settlements, both Te Atiawa and Ngati Toa have claimed tangata whenua status over Tapu te Ranga Island. Ngati Toa's case was proven in the Māori Land Court.[12]
In the early days of European settlement George Hunter was the chief proprietor of the Island Bay Estate, where he bred stock on his stud farm. The Island Bay portion was subdivided and auctioned in March 1879.[13] In the late 19th century, Island Bay was settled by Italian and Shetlander fishermen. In 1905, Wellington's tramline was extended to Island Bay, increasing the area's popularity, and steadily transforming it into a seaside suburb. Many Island Bay villas, bungalows and shops date from the 1920s, a period of rapid development for the area.[14] This included the Island Bay Racecourse which was approximately 2km running down Clyde and Derwent Streets, and bounded by Medway and Humber Streets encompassing parts of Mersey Street and Thames Street.[15] Many streets in Island Bay were named after British and European rivers.
In 2016, a cycle way was built along The Parade resulting in considerable controversy within the Island Bay community. [16]
Notable features
Erskine College and Chapel
Designed by John Sydney Swan and built in 1904–1906, the Convent of the Sacred Heart, a Catholic girls' boarding school, was renamed Erskine College in the late 1960s after the former Superior General Mother Janet Erskine Stuart. The adjacent Erskine Chapel of the Sacred Heart, also designed by John Sydney Swan, was built in 1930 in the French Gothic style. Erskine Chapel is considered to have one of the finest chapel interiors in New Zealand, and is listed as Category I by Heritage New Zealand.[17] The school closed in 1985 and the complex is privately owned.[14] Erskine College was used as a location in Peter Jackson's 1996 film The Frighteners. The chapel was refurbished in 2003, and is a popular venue for weddings and concerts.[18][19]
The Island Bay Marine Education Centre on the foreshore has a small aquarium and touch tank, and is open to the public on Sundays.[20]
Churches
There are five churches in Island Bay. The oldest is St Hilda's Anglican church,[21] which is over 100 years old. It had a traditional brick front design, and some stained glass windows honouring the early settlers but the parish was required by Wellington City council to address the building's vulnerability to earthquakes. The upgrade project saw the removal of all the brickwork which was replaced by a timber-frame, with floor to ceiling glass facing onto The Parade. The strengthened building re-opened on 27 November 2022. [22] The church is named after St Hilda of Whitby, as the early settlers felt the coastline resembled Northumbria. The Baptist,[23] Catholic,[24] Serbian Orthodox and Presbyterian[25] churches were established more recently. The church facilities are used by a range of community groups.
Scuba diving and snorkeling
Two diving companies operate in Island Bay, and offer trips within the local Taputeranga Marine Reserve and to the wreck of HMNZS Wellington, a decommissioned Royal New Zealand Navy frigate which was sunk off the coast of Island Bay in November 2005 to create an artificial reef.
A snorkel trail is located on the eastern side of the bay and offers opportunities to see local fish and marine life.[1]
Oku Street Reserve is a park situated on a promontory between Island Bay and Owhiro Bay.
Shorland Park
Shorland Park is a small public park at Island Bay Beach. The playground was extensively upgraded in 2021 and 2022, reopening on 4 March 2022.[26]
Shorland Park contains a band rotunda built in 1930. Plaques record the 152 local soldiers who died in World War I and World War II, and the loss of American submarines and their crew in the Pacific. In the 1930s, local brass bands and the Salvation Army frequently played in the rotunda. The rotunda is now used for occasional concerts, notably during the annual Island Bay Festival.
Tapu Te Ranga Marae
Situated in 50 acres (20 ha) of replanted native forest on a hill near Rhine Street, Tapu Te Ranga Marae was a living marae and the home of Bruce Stewart. The 2,500 m2 (27,000 sq ft) wooden house extended over ten levels, and was built with recycled materials.
The marae was built by Stewart over a few years between 1977 and 1983.[27] At 12:30am on 9 June 2019, the marae suffered a devastating fire and was subsequently destroyed.[28] There are plans to rebuild the marae in the same site.[29]
Taputeranga Marine Reserve
The waters surrounding Island Bay have been under the protection of the Department of Conservation since the creation of the 854 hectare Taputeranga Marine Reserve in 2006. The reserve is home to kelp forests, octopuses, blue cod and banded wrasse. Dolphins and whales also frequent the area. A 200m 'snorkel trail' within the reserve starts and finishes in Island Bay.[30]
Tapu Te Ranga Motu (the Island)
Tapu Te Ranga Motu, the island in the middle of the bay, once served as a refuge for local Māori. Tamairanga, the wife of the Ngati Ira chief Whanake, escaped to the island with her children during a battle that forced the tribe from Wellington Harbour.[14]
Island Bay is the starting point for two recreational walkways that cross the city. The City to Sea Walkway runs 12 km (7.5 mi) between Parliament and Island Bay through the Botanic Gardens and Aro Valley. The 11 km (6.8 mi) Southern Walkway follows the Town Belt between Island Bay and Oriental Bay.
Island Bay Festival
The annual Island Bay Festival takes place over eight days each February. It has included:
The Blessing of the Boats. The Blessing of the Boats is a southern Italian tradition where boats are decorated with flags and blessed by a priest to protect the crew from the sea and to bring good fortune. The ceremony has taken place in Island Bay since 1933, when the fishing boat Santina foundered in Cook Strait, with the loss of four crew including three Italians. On 13 February 2011, during that year's Island Bay Festival, a chair was unveiled for the crew of the Santina, presented by friends and family of the four casualties.[31]
The Ribble Street Races: A Soapbox derby down the steep Ribble Street attracted budding race car drivers with junior, intermediate, senior and expert categories, the latter often reaching 65 km/h.
The Island Bay Raft Race: The inaugural raft race was in 2020, with DIY rafts and family teams paddling parallel to the beach. The Lyall Bay Surf club provided support and rescue services on the day.
The swim to and from the Island: Participants were ferried by boat to the Island, and swam the few hundred metres back to shore. A 'there and back' race was also held.
The Festival Parade: This proceeds down The Parade to Shorland Park. In the past the Parade featured a colourful 'dressing of the bicycles' competition.
The Teddy Bears Picnic: On the final Sunday of the festival, younger members of the community brought their teddy bears for a picnic in Shorland Park.[32]
Demographics
Island Bay, comprising the statistical areas of Island Bay West and Island Bay East, covers 2.15 km2 (0.83 sq mi).[1] It had an estimated population of 7,170 as of June 2024, with a population density of 3,335 people per km2.
Island Bay had a population of 6,897 at the 2018 New Zealand census, an increase of 291 people (4.4%) since the 2013 census, and an increase of 495 people (7.7%) since the 2006 census. There were 2,424 households, comprising 3,351 males and 3,546 females, giving a sex ratio of 0.95 males per female, with 1,413 people (20.5%) aged under 15 years, 1,311 (19.0%) aged 15 to 29, 3,447 (50.0%) aged 30 to 64, and 729 (10.6%) aged 65 or older.
Ethnicities were 84.5% European/Pākehā, 9.2% Māori, 5.7% Pasifika, 9.6% Asian, and 3.5% other ethnicities. People may identify with more than one ethnicity.
The percentage of people born overseas was 26.9, compared with 27.1% nationally.
Although some people chose not to answer the census's question about religious affiliation, 55.6% had no religion, 32.4% were Christian, 0.4% had Māori religious beliefs, 2.3% were Hindu, 0.5% were Muslim, 0.9% were Buddhist and 2.5% had other religions.
Of those at least 15 years old, 2,487 (45.4%) people had a bachelor's or higher degree, and 480 (8.8%) people had no formal qualifications. 1,764 people (32.2%) earned over $70,000 compared to 17.2% nationally. The employment status of those at least 15 was that 3,246 (59.2%) people were employed full-time, 834 (15.2%) were part-time, and 186 (3.4%) were unemployed.[33]
While living in Wellington in the 1960s, Rita Angus painted a number of scenes in Island Bay. Boats, Island Bay is one of her best-loved paintings.[36][37]
Empire Cinema, film
The art deco Empire Theatre screened films between 1925 and 1964. It reopened as the Empire Cinema in 2005.[38]
Laura Garland, artist
Laura Garland lives in Island Bay, and paints colourful Wellington and New Zealand scenes.
Michael McCormack, artist
Michael McCormack is an Irish-born painter worked from his studio and gallery in Island Bay, painting vivid streetscapes and coastal scenes around Wellington. He relocated his studio in 2024.
Music
Rock frontmen Andrew Fagan of the Mockers and Jon Toogood of Shihad grew up in Island Bay. Samuel Flynn Scott and Conrad Wedde of New Zealand group The Phoenix Foundation also live in the suburb.
Literature
Children's authors Fleur Beale, Suzanne Main[39] and Brigid Feehan[40] all live in Island Bay.
Red Mole, theatre
Alan Brunton and Sally Rodwell of the Red Mole experimental theatre group, were based in Island Bay from 1988 until Brunton's death in 2002.[41]
Chris Visser-Fee, comedian, was raised, and continues to live in Island Bay, where he regularly performs comedic routines, many known for their slapstick appeal.
Freya Elkink, artist, resides in Island Bay. Her art form mostly composes of artistic impressionism, placing popular Wellington faces into less than likely situations.
Education
Island Bay School is a co-educational state primary school for Year 1 to 6 students,[42][43] with a roll of 342 as of August 2024.[44]
St Francis De Sales School is a co-educational state-integrated Catholic primary school for Year 1 to 8 students,[45][46] with a roll of 197.[47]
Gallery
Blessing of the Boats event during the 2012 Island Bay Festival
The band rotunda in Shorland Park during the 2012 Island Bay Festival
Empty craypots on Island Bay foreshore; Tapu Te Ranga Island in background
Walking the dog on the beach at Island Bay; Interislander ferry and Tapu Te Ranga Island in background
^Love, Matene. "Te Ara o nga Tupuna". Wellington City Libraries. Wellington City Council. Retrieved 15 January 2017.
^Robinson, J (2006). "The Battles of Tapu te Ranga". Southern Bays. Wellington: The Wellington Southern Bays Historical Society Inc. n.2:p.37–39. ISSN1177-0279.
^"Boats, Island Bay". Rita Angus: Life and Vision. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Archived from the original on 21 February 2014. Retrieved 18 February 2014.